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Bad Fillet Caps on Extruded Ai outlines.
Attached are some picture examples. Also, there are links to both my AI file and C4D file.
I have Abobe Illustrator outlines that I’ve saved as v8 so I could import into C4D to use are outlines. I’m getting funky edges when I crank up the fillet cap radius after extruding the outlines.
I’ve checked my AI outlines, and I don’t think I have any hidden points, or overlapping outlines. I need a fresh set of eyes, and someone who knows C4D better than me to point out what might be the problem. You’re help is greatly appreciated.
https://files.me.com/jgalbincea/lxky2l – AI file
https://files.me.com/jgalbincea/k7qod1 – C4D File.Thanks!
-Josh
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4 Replies
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If you Constrain the caps you are going to run in to limits to how far you can fillet. Take one of the crosses to the “t’s” if the fillet from the top meets the fillet from the bottom you get artifacts once they pass each other. If you don’t Constrain you don’t get artifacts (usually) but you have to accept that your text is going to get wider. If you make everything ‘skinnier’ in AI you can still end up with letters with the same (or similar) weight. Otherwise just turn off the constrain.
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Thank you. One more question…
Attached is a photo of what I’m trying to recreate. The AI file delivered to me had an effect on the outlines to create the tapered edge look. I had to overhaul their AI file to make the lines clean. As you can see, the way it tapers is much more unique than the regular fillet options. Is the fillet caps option the best way to achieve this?
https://files.me.com/jgalbincea/4cvs6r – Original AI file.
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A 2D file that was made to look 3D… often a problem. The ‘C’ is different from all the other letters (a chiselled bevel), it could be done (almost) with an extrude but the spline would have to trace the flat part of the C and the ‘back of the C’ (on the left) would have to have the spline touching itself for that part – then the extrude would work and create the outside – however getting a spline to align with itself like that is tough (not impossible though).
The other letters can’t be done the same way since they look like they are done in a different 2D technique the “3D fake drop shadow” kind of thing. Because it’s asymmetrical you can’t just use an extrude (unless you tilt them to the camera) you’d have to make 2 splines for each letter one for the flat ‘face’ and another for the outside shape. If you then put the front spline forward and the outside spline back then join the two with a Loft you’d have the letter. — just had a thought, maybe an extrude could work if the extrude was made to go “not straight back”, as is usual, to end up with faces that face the camera but sides and back that have the needed “drop shadow” alignment – just tried that and it doesn’t work well if the fillet is too large and it also suffers badly from true 3D – it’s obvious the letters (the drop shadow effect) are all a bit different because they are all in different positions relative to the camera, the letters in the example jpeg all have an identical 3D effect, it is possible to do that in 3D but you have to change from the perspective to the Parallel camera to do it. -
Just FYI: This link might help give you more control over your bevels:
https://planetpixelemporium.com/tutorialpages/bevel.html
https://vimeo.com/explosivegraffix
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