I have not used the program that you have stated above, but I have used countless programs to try and attempt the same result, and this is what I have found.
First let me say that I have used Shake 3.0, AE 2-6.5, Fcp 1-4.5, commotion, and even hand done frame by frame stabilization. In all cases “quality” of the end result came down to two settings.
First, progressive recording of video. Interlaced artifacts destroy stabilization be maintaining the horizontal shift of the pixels without the frame actually moving. Progressive video is the way to go, and I have been able to utilize digital stabilization ever since I bought a GL1 in 1999.
And second, hight shutter rate. A shutter grater that 1/200th reduces blur that reduces the effectiveness of the stabilized footage. In other words, if the image is still, but the blur is still moving stabilization will make the audience trip out and vomit.
Something that impressed me about the software that you mention is that it works on panning shots. Most software will require separate key frames for a pan to be stabilized. The samples a impressive but also suffer from not being progressive, and are not shot at a high enough frame rate (see previous notes above).
In the end, I did buy a glidecam 2000 plus vest for all of my productions, and I have never looked back. Also optical image stabilization is the only way to go. All digital (computer or camera) stabilization reduces the resolution of the final product. Oh, and BTW, I just bought a Nikon D2x DSLR ($5,000) and a 70-200mm lens ($1500) that has optical “vr” stabilization, and I can shoot at 300mm at only 1/100 of a second, razor sharp. On a non “vr” lens I would be at 1/300 to 1/500 to shoot hand held.
Adam