Advice on using HDMI for live projection

[Steve Kownacki]

I handle this in 2 ways. The first is with a KeyDigital KD-CATHD-150, specifically to connect a consumer camera’s HD out to a switcher or to feed a projector. Works wonderfully, good for 250′.
https://keydigital.com/items.asp?ItemCode=KDCATHD150&Company=KEY

For the pro things, I use KanexPro boxes converting HD-SDI out of a switcher to HDMI at the projector.
https://www.kanexpro.com/converters/sdi/
Note that this model https://www.kanexpro.com/item/?id=EXT-HDSDIX CANNOT be used to convert consumer camera HDMI out as the mini or microHDMI do not supply voltage and will not be recognized on the input side. You need to add this in the chain first. https://www.kanexpro.com/item/?id=HDREPEAT10G

This one is my fav, https://www.kanexpro.com/item/?id=EXT-SDI3GX, I run HDSDI to a monitor, connect via HDMI, then loop HDSDI to another monitor at yet another location. The only issue with this method is if there is any interruption in the chain, anything downline is also affected (as opposed to feeding multiple monitors from a DA at the head).

I’ve never had “touchy” HDMI cables (but take plenty, they’re essentially disposable) but connectors on projectors are not the best. I usually gaff tape everything in place and reduce stress on the connections.

Steve

[Michael Boitnott]

I echo the previous posters advice about HD/3GSDI. We use that for many of our HD shows. We tried to go with HD cat6 to DVI, but we never got it to function properly. Plus many of our switchers and cameras have SDI out or in, meaning we only have to convert once. We usually buy the converter boxes on Amazon and have had great success with them. Like anything, bring extra

Big thing to remember about those boxes. Make sure the send or receive 3GSDI. We don’t have much that generates full 1080P accept for MacBooks. But if the box doesn’t do 3G speed you won’t get your 1090P/60hz signal. At least not reliably