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24p, 60i, 30p, Supersampling?
I have a project which is all animated in Vegas 9 (just slow pans and zooms on static images), and I’m trying to decide on a final format.
I’ve pretty well ruled out 60i because I don’t like the interlacing artifacts that show up on progressive scan TVs. However, I do like the framerate. 30p would fit the bill perfectly for me, but it’s my understanding that 30p is not a standard DVD format and may not play correctly in all players. This DVD will be replicated professionally so it has to be right.
24p gives me a great picture, and the frame rate would be fine if it were consistent, but I feel like I’m getting a lot of judder in my pans and zooms.
So I’m trying to smooth out 24p to see if I can get it to have more of the smoothness of 30p. I’ve tried both motion blur and supersampling in Vegas. For my application, adding motion blur just seems to fuzzy things up and doesn’t really do much to reduce the perception of judder. However, I THINK I can see a difference when using supersampling on its own, although I’m confused… I thought that supersampling only had an effect when using motion blur?
Is there anything I can do to smooth 24p, or is it just the nature of the beast? And is this a problem with Vegas’s tweening, or just with the 24p framerate?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!
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7 Replies
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Supersampling has nothing to do with motion blur. Supersampling has to do with more accurate “tweening” (i.e., producing more accurate in-between frames). What you might want to do is convert your project properties to 24p. Remember, static images have no frame rate so if you project is 60i and you render to 24p you are asking Vegas to convert a still image to 60i and then 24p. By making your project 24p, it will simply make 24p from the still images. If some pans are still too jerky, then slow them down in your project because now you can judge how they will look in the preview because both the project and render are 24p (i.e., what you see is what you will get).
~jr
http://www.johnrofrano.com
http://www.vasst.com -
Thanks for the input. I did switch my project properties to 24p, so that shouldn’t be a problem. Would you agree that I should rule out 30p?
So should I turn supersampling all the way up to 8 on the output bus before I render?
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> Would you agree that I should rule out 30p?
Well… it’s not suppose to be legal on a DVD but someone else pointed out to me that DVD Architect will accept 30p and not re-encode it. So you might want to try rendering a small section to 30p and see if how it looks to you on DVD.
> So should I turn supersampling all the way up to 8 on the output bus before I render?
So let me qualify my initial statement that “supersampling has nothing to do with motion blur“. What I meant was that it can be used on it’s own without adding motion blur (i.e., it does not need motion blur to work) but in your case I probably would use it with motion blur because it will make the motion blur smoother.
What you are trying to do is simulate the blur that would have happened had you really panned with a 24p camera. So I would not crank supersampling up to 8. I would add a few frames of motion blur and set supersampling at around 4. If that doesn’t smooth out the pan, then you need to make the pan slower or increase the frame rate to make it smoother.
~jr
http://www.johnrofrano.com
http://www.vasst.com -
Thanks again. Do you have any recommendation for what length of motion blur would be appropriate to simulate film? Say, 00:00:00:06? And is Gaussian the preferable type for my application, or is it more a matter of taste?
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I tried 30p on disc. It looks fantastic on my player/TV, but who knows about compatibility across a range of TVs and players…
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> Do you have any recommendation for what length of motion blur would be appropriate to simulate film?
I would just blur 2 or 3 frames. 6 seems like a lot but you need to render a small section out for yourself and see how it looks. Like I said, if you’re having to use too much blur, you need to slow the pan down instead.
If you want to “simulate film” then you need to simulate how slow you would really have to pan if you were using a film camera which is why slowing down the actual pan is the only way to make it look more like “film”. Someone using a film camera would not pan that fast.
~jr
http://www.johnrofrano.com
http://www.vasst.com -
Thanks. It is a pretty slow pan, actually.
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