[Todd Terry]

Ummm… in the link for the first auction, those are strobes, NOT continuous lighting instruments. The second ones are continuous. They look kinda cheap, but for temporary use on a budget might be ok.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Well… exactly what LEDs are you looking at? With 2K of tungsten already in the room, I would think that most LED instruments would not be bright enough to do any real practical good.

If you want decent output but are trying to keep your power consumption (and heat) down, I would suggest Kinos. If price is an issue the guy at coollights.biz makes some very decent Kino-clones… but if you are considering LEDs from LitePanels (or similar) then I’m guessing money isn’t really a concern, so I’d probably go with the real Kinoflos.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Yep, we have gotten really spoiled since starting to shoot with the XLH1 about a year ago… which does have clear scan, and you can dial in any exact shutter speed you want.

There are some options with the XL1. As Peter said, and LCD monitor is going to give you fewer problems than a CRT. Try that first, if it is an option.

Secondly, you can go into the computer’s display settings and change the refresh rate. It think it’s more or less the same for the different operating systems (at least for Windows), but in XP that’s Conrol Panel > Display > Settings > Advanced > Monitor. Try setting the “Screen Refresh Rate” to 60 Hertz if it is set to something else. Of course, if this is someone else’s computer (say, you were shooting in someone’s office) just be sure to re-set the computer back as you found it.

[Todd Terry]

[nitron] “If you think shooting at 24f in H1, IN YOUR DREAM. No matter what you do, IT WILL LOOK LIKE STROBING FX”

Oh so SO untrue. I’ve had an XLH1 for just over a year now, with it I have shot dozens and dozens of local, regional, and a couple of national television commercials. I’d say 99% of my projects have been shot 24f (we only used 60i a few times when we WANTED it to look like video), and it always looked like a million bucks. Never had even a hint of “strobing” or anything else like that. Canon’s 24f imports into our NLEs EXACTLY like our telecined 35mm film… frame for frame, field for field, it’s exact… and I’ve found it flawless.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

There should be no problem with tungsten fixtures.

Unlike HMI or flo ballasts you do not have to worry about whether tungsten fixtures are “flicker free.”

Tungsten fixtures… unlike flos or HMIs… simply do not flicker. The simple reason is that the hot tungsten filament continues to glow for an instant even after power is interrupted. The glow basically “bridges” the cycle, whether it be 50, 60 or whatever.

Then again, I suppose if the cycle was 1 or 10, yeah, they’d flicker. But not with a modern power system like 50 or 60 cycles.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Define “boatload” 🙂

A little clairification would be helpful… do you need someone to teach you how to shoot…. or are you already an accomplished shooter who needs to learn how to specifically use the XLH1?

If it’s the latter, shouldn’t be a big deal for you to learn. We have used our XLH1 since right when they first came out, and have found it to be quite easy to use and intuitive. I’m one of those “never open a manual” guys, but in this case I did thoroughly read the book and it told me everything about the camera that I needed to know.

The XLH1 will do a lot toward “making it look like film,” as you said. I think you will be happy with the results. Just be prepared for the fact that with the XLH1 alone it will never look 100% COMPLETELY like telecined film, as the deep depths of field will always give it away (to trained eyes) as video. To get over that hump you will need a lens converter (we use the P+S Technik Mini35) and cine lenses. Even without that, however, the XLH1 puts out a STUNNING picture. I think I’ve been happier with the XLH1 than with any other video camera we’ve ever bought (and some of the film cameras!)

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Thanks Kathlyn…

Finally found it… it’s the 1 Beyond HD D2D-Max

Thanks!

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Hey Don…

Hmmmm, man, either of those ring a bell, I think it was yet a different system I was hearing about.

Those are both interesting though, I will give ’em a good look.

Appreciate it!

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Thanks Ron…

I know what you mean, that could be an interesting effect.

However, in this case we are talking about a realistic scene where a character is simply sitting in a bar, watching the football game that he has placed a bet on. We see the action on the TV screen, but only incidentally. At any rate it has to be “real” looking action… as if he is watching a normal “Monday Night Football” broadcast, etc. It can’t be fake, phony, or stylized. Your idea might be a good one if we wanted to produce a special “show open” to the broadcast, or bumpers to go in and out of commercials, etc.

Yes, Schwab gives me the creeps, too.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

[zrb123] “Much easier to go with stock footage”

Well if anyone has any sources for affordable/licensable stock footage that looks like a “real” brodcast of a “real” game, I’m all eyes. I just can’t imagine any source.

I could be wrong, often am…

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com