[Todd Terry]

I shoot with the C300 every day, and yes you can easily change the shutter speed.

MENU >>
SHUTTER >>
Set the MODE to “SPEED.” Yours is apparently set to “ANGLE”

Once you have it set to SPEED instead of ANGLE, you’ll be able to adjust your shutter speed precisely. I’m not sure how you will access shutter speed on your particular C300, for mine I have one of the programmable buttons assigned to SHUTTER, but undoubtedly yours will not be the same button.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

If that’s the case and you are shooting 25p (25 frames per second), then a “normal” shutter speed to give you a smooth fluid look should be 1/50th of a second… give or take a little bit.

But, as I’m sure you know, things on screen are never exactly as they appear to your naked eyeball. That’s usually a good thing and we use it to our advantage… but here that’s probably a negative for you, since that’s the goal.

Good luck!

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Is your goal sharp still photos? If that’s the case and you want no motion blur, then yes your shutter speed is too low. WAY too low, probably.

25p has nothing to do with it, that is apples and oranges (although many people confuse the two. 25p (or more commonly here in the states, 24p) is the frame rate, not the shutter speed. That only tells you that you are shooting 25 frames per second, it does NOT tell you how long the exposure is for each frame.

Now, normally when we are shooting motion for film and video, we want that motion blur… it is needed to help our brains mush all those individual frames into nice smooth fluid motion. If you shoot with too high a shutter speed, you get that jerky staccato look that we see so often used (or rather overused) in action scenes. That is called the “narrow shutter effect,” and is sometimes used well (Saving Private Ryan), and sometimes way overused and poorly (and movie that happens to be Fast and/or Furious). So what is happening in those cases, the frame rate was (probably) 24 frames per second but the shutter speed was much higher… maybe 1/250 or even more.

Now when you want the appropriate amount of motion blur to give a smooth look, the usual rule of thumb is “One over twice the frame rate.” That is, if you are shooting at 24fps, then a good target shutter speed would be 1/48th of a second. That will give you the “normal” smooth look. but if you are wanting sharp crisp stills of those birds to extract from your footage, then you need to shoot with a higher shutter speed. If shooting 25p you still be shooting at a frame rate of 25 frames per second, but you’ll want to crank your shutter speed up much higher. You footage probably won’t look to pretty if you just watch it as normal footage (it will have that staccato look), but individual frames will be sharp.

I know, it can get a little confusing…

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Rick is right… that’s something that’s probably not applicable to the film and video production industry, which is what this forum is for. I’m not sure you know that, we occasionally get posts in here from someone asking about designing lighting for their kitchen or pool or whatever… but that’s not what we all do. This forum is primarily about professional lighting design for cinematography and such (and maybe a little bit of stage work).

BUT… your idea is an uber-cool thing, and you’ve got very neat design there. I can certainly see it in a home/office/industrial setting, which is what I guessing the target market would be. You’ve done great work.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Refusing to acknowledge that reply. Just can’t do it.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

That’s a pretty common problem with older camera gear, where rubberized housings begin decomposing and starting to become both sticky and brittle. As you said they become “unpleasant to touch”… very.

I have an old still camera that suffered the exact same condition. I scoured the Googling machine to see if there was any way to stop it from breaking down further and didn’t find any solutions to keep it from progressing. As for battling the “unpleasant to touch” situation, the only recommendations I ever really found were to sprinkle baby powder on it to combat the stickiness. I’ll have to admit that I never bothered to try that, but you might give it a go and see if that helps.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

Try keywords “choir” and “ahh”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QBEt0F13RE

https://www.audioblocks.com/royalty-free-audio/vocal+choir+ahh

https://freesound.org/people/Diboz/sounds/211494/

https://www.orangefreesounds.com/choirs-angels/

https://www.soundboard.com/sb/sound/905446

https://www.audiosparx.com/sa/summary/play.cfm/crumb.0/crumc.0/sound_iid.187975

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

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[Todd Terry]

Hi Mark…

You are in the right place.

I have to say that I’ve been shooting with the C300 since right when they came out (so quite a few years now), and I’ve never seen this happen, or the question mark icons or however that is displayed.

I would suggest that, with the cards in the camera, you dig around in the menus and see if you can find “Repair File” or anything similar to such. I don’t know if that exists as an option like that, but I do know that the C300 can repair a damaged file, but you are usually automatically prompted to do that (and there is just a yes/no click when asked if you want to do that).

The other thing you might try is to put one of your suspect cards into one slot on your camera, then put a blank card in the other slot, and see if your camera will successfully let you back up the files to the new card… then see if the cloned card will work for you.

I’m usually not one of those “I don’t have an answer but I’ll chime in anyway” guys, but in this case I did because this Canon forum does not get very much traffic at all and wanted to give you at least something to try.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

[David Ritchie] “What software are you using that tells you that portion of the video is only 12FPS?”

Well I just imported the clip into Premiere, where it showed me the entire clip was 23.976, so I put it on a 23.976 timeline. If it toggle through frame by frame during the B camera shoots, it shows me there is only one new frame for every two frames on the timeline… so the frame rate is half that, or 12fps.

Sounds like your footage itself is ok. If you just throw one of the B camera clips raw directly onto a 23.976 timeline and play it, does it look ok? Maybe it does have something to do with the nesting, maybe the nested timeline has the wrong frame rate or something… it’s a little hard to speculate remotely.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Todd Terry]

I’ve been wanting to buy one, too, David… and have checked I believe every single one of our usual sources for gear (B&H and about 10 others). Every single one of them has it backordered until the end of May.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com