Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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Well, this is just a common sense answer but I would say the iPad has a glossy screen so I think what you want is soft ambient lighting with no hot spots and to make sure that whatever does happen to be in the background area of your set (whatever might be reflected in the iPad’s screen in other words) is dark or muted in color so as to further combat annoying reflections
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Here’s a point to consider in favor of filming in 1080p versus 720. It would give you the added flexibility in post to reframe your shot if you ever need to, even a bit of a zoom in capability if you think of it that way…see something distracting in the frame?…easily get rid of it.
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Jason – it’s not that you aren’t talented because clearly you are but here is my feedback
* You are violating copyright by using the Johnny Cash song and anyone who would hire you will or should know this. I wouldn’t hire you for this reason alone – it’s simply unprofessional.
* I only got 50 seconds in before I gave up, yes the shots are very nice however they are all clearly from the same project. This sends the message that you haven’t shot anything else that you want to show …. now I am sure this isn’t the case and maybe you actually have different stuff later on in your demo reel but like I said I could only get through 50 seconds before I gave up.
Maybe you should consider taking this one down and trying again.
I hope this doesn’t come across as unduly harsh because that wasn’t my intent at all.
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Yeah that was me and I was dancing on the very edge of my knowledge when I posted that so it’s no surprise to me that it came back to bite me in the ass ha ha!
From what I understand ONE advantage of the more expensive glass is that it can be sharper/offer higher resolution photographs. When you have cameras creating still images that are 3456 X 5184 (around 3.5K resolution then) or even much higher then, yes, keeping all those pixels sharp and in-focus is something that STILL photographers like to see.
But when even HD video is “only” 1920 x 1080 pixels AND when you consider how many of us adjust our cameras to turn the video sharpness waaaaay down then I have to question the value of these lenses to the video dslr guy or gal. On the other hand, I’ve read the other posts in this thread and there are some good comments that I didn’t take into account. For instance, IF an L series lens gives you a more wide open lens (faster/lower f-stop number) then that’s a factor and if the bokah really IS better well that’s obviously good too.
I guess my point is that you shouldn’t feel bad if you can only afford the more consumer level glass – that most people probably won’t notice the difference in image quality or give a darn if you point it out to them.
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I am not sure I am understanding since those are two different things.
Just because you have a shoulder mount doesn’t mean you will be able to see the LCD screen while filming outdoors on a sunny day or magnify the LCD screen for easier focus checking which are two things that the Hoodman should do for you (might not magnify – you have to check)
I have the Zacutto Z-Finder which I consider an essential bit of gear so I would buy that first if that answers your question.
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If by “clarity” you mean sharpness…you don’t need L glass. First of all, most us create custom picture profiles where we actually turn sharpness way DOWN…sharpness, while great for still photographs, tends to make video look like, well…video. By which I mean the kind of video you might see filming with a typical Mini-DV type camcorder where everything is in focus and sharp. If you want sharpness I guess you could into the same menu and turn that setting up.
Also, video is actually pretty low resolution, even HD video is technically less than 2K resolution and any standard Canon lens can handle that.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
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1) It has stereo sound recording but can I hook up mics to it?
I don’t have the GH2 but rather film with the Canon T2i but the same answers should apply. Yes this camera does have an external mic input – it is very important that you come up with an audio recording solution that works for you because the built-in mic is terrible. Most pros use a “dual sound” technique which you can read about by searching these forums.
2) Can I manually focus with it during film recording? or do I have to buy a specific lens to do that as well?Yes you can and all DSLR lenses have a manual focus option – some may or may not have an auto focus option in addition to that.
3) What type of projector do I have to purchase for it, and should it be the kind that is separate or is there a type that hooks up to the camera itself.
If I am understanding you correctly, once you have edited your film and have exported a digital file (say Quicktime for example) to your computer then you can use any standard digital video projector – there’s nothing special needed simply because you filmed your project with a DSLR. I am not aware of any projector that attach directly to the camera.
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I’m not sure but it sound like what you are describing is flickering caused by fluorescent lighting – it could look like bars rolling up and down walls and other parts of the image. There have been several threads here on this forum (with screen shots) providing hints on how to repair footage damaged by fluorescent flickering and how to avoid it in the first place.
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F8 is what you would choose if you want everything in focus – the opposite of shallow depth of field. I believe it’s a popular fstop with photojournalists because it makes it much more likely that what they capture will actually be in focus. I heard a funny saying once used by photojournalists that the secret to their success was two fold – a camera set at F8 and being there to take the picture.
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Sure just set your fstop to f8 or f11 and then you will have that look but why do you want it? As a safety measure to keep your subjects in focus while in unpredictable circumstances?