Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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You might have to use the USB connection vs hdmi
Steve Crow
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Interesting project and something I’ve never tried but you seem to be on the right track. However, just thinking about it, I would plan on shooting “tethered” or wired, not wireless, to a laptop. This is how the stop motion apps are designed to work although they use the camera’s still function instead of video.
I wouldn’t think that would matter but I am sure someone has done this who can tell you exactly. You might also want to post this question into an animation forum if you haven’t already.
It’s going to be challenging because hands, head, legs, forearms etc all must be in the exact same position…and ,for video, stay there. Although if the model does move you could cut out a few frames where the position is perfect and then just extend the frames duration…and maybe a few seconds of movement AFTER the clothes swap has appeared on screen would actually help sell the effect.
I think DragonFrame is the industry standard tool https://www.dragonframe.com/ for working with a DSLR – – but its around $300
I just saw that iStop Motion’s latest upgrade now supports DSLR Live View…
Steve Crow
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Yes, I’ve always read that filming from a tripod with OIS on is a bad idea, it’s interesting to note that your handheld shots were ok while those on the tripod weren’t. Anyways, worth checking out.
Steve Crow
PS: Just found a video that demonstrates this very well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmd2Qq-kUdk
oh and here’s a quote which explains the issue very well:
If you mount the camera on a tripod (or similar stable platform) without cutting the IS, you risk creating what’s called a feedback loop, in which the camera’s IS system essentially detects its own vibrations, which are picked up and amplified by the tripod, which in turn forces the camera’s IS system to work increasingly harder to quell the elevating levels of camera shake. Worst case scenario: things spin out of control and your camera ends up in the repair shop.
Many newer IS systems can detect when the camera is secured to a tripod, or have a “Tripod” mode that automatically compensates for the added resistance of the tripod, or shuts the IS function off entirely. If you already own an IS-enabled lens or camera or plan on purchasing one, make sure you read the fine print in the product manual to verify the type of IS system with which the camera or lens is equipped.
An additional downside of many simpler dual-axis IS systems is that they hamper smooth side-to-side panning action. By design, dual-axis IS systems interpret and react to pan movements as shake movements, which results in jerky, uneven sideways pan motions when shooting stills and video. To remedy this issue, lens manufacturers have updated many of the newer IS-enabled optics with a Pan Mode, which allows for smoother, jerk-free panning motions.
Note: Camera and lens manufacturers use differing nomenclature to describe similar forms of functionality. Make sure you read the fine print when researching the features of camera/lens IS systems.
If you shoot with a camera that features in-camera IS (i.e. Sony Alpha/Minolta, Pentax, Olympus) and plan on using a third-party lens that also features an IS system, turn off the camera’s IS system and rely on the lens’s IS system to smooth out the bumps in the road. Running both systems simultaneously will most certainly compromise your ability to hold things steady, not to mention cause damage to one or both of the IS systems.
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” I only wish DSLRS were 4k, but I’m sure that’s not far off.”
Good news, that is already starting to happen with cameras like the GH4, Sony A7S and the Canon 1DC which all achieve this but I am very sure more such cameras are coming soon as 4K seems to be all the rage, perhaps even more so than RAW.
Steve Crow
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Oh, are you using storage cards that are rated fast enough to handle 1080p video? I use Transcend cards that are Class 6 but I know many people are only happy with the faster Class 10 cards. I use a Canon but you might research what cards are recommended for your Nikon.
Some people have improved their camera’s video performance by switching to another brand of card even if the speed is the same. You might research that because a card that can’t keep up in camera with the streams of video being sent it would drop frames and cause a jittery look.
Steve Crow
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Well Javier your computer setup is more than adequate 🙂
I just did a quick scan of the Google and it turned up quite a few complaints with the Nikon D7100 series and jittery video. I haven’t read of a solution.
I do find it interesting that in your case it is jittery while still in camera, that’s usually not what I’ve heard people complaining about. So that tends to get me thinking about camera settings but your shutter speed settings are correct so….?
Steve Crow
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Well the first thing I would try is converting the video file from its native H.264 compression format to ProRes if you are on Mac or something like DNxHD if you are a PC user.
Even fairly powerful laptops can play back H.264 with quite a lot of jitter but if you transcode the file, I find, it will play back much smoother. I’d try that first to see if it helps.
If not, then it is something else, perhaps the computer itself is not powerful enough in which case you might want to switch to filming 720 versus 1080 and/or lowering the bitrate of the file so it’s not as huge.
By the way, transcoding to ProRes typically makes my Canon files 3x times the file size but they still play back much smoother and are much easier to edit than keeping them H.264. This has to do with the particulars of how the H.264 compression works, long “GOPS” and other jibberish.
Steve Crow
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Warren, I guess if that forum posting I mentioned is correct they do it by adding a container for the extra 2 bits of data but then leave that container empty so technically it’s 10 bit but only has 8 bit’s worth of data…again IF that forum posting is correct which I don’t know for sure.
Steve Crow
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Well this would actually be more of a question: if you are saying that HDMI output of the 5D MIII is 8 bit then how can Ninja record that signal in 10 bit? Where is the extra data coming from?
This forum posting:
https://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=13610.15
says: “It’s still 8bit in a 10bit container if you record on Ninja 2, the additional 2bits are just zero.” which would explain a lot if true.
Now you would still have the advantage of the transcoding to ProRes being done for you by the Ninja and you wouldn’t have to do that transcoding in your NLE.
Steve Crow
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I realized the Batman documentary is Legends of the Knight and you can watch a trailer for it at:
wearebatman.comCheers!
Steve Crow