Samuel Frazier
Forum Replies Created
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So, I did some tests as I mentioned, and have found:
Using Compressor to do the speed change results in a sort of ghostly frame every so often. So, not terribly desirable. Perhaps there’s a way to tweak the settings, but I followed the tutorial w/ their settings, and this is what I got.
I also tried Boris Red to the speed up. Velocity Remap looked sort of okay, but was choppy. Optical Flow really seemed to do the job though. The problem is, I doubt it’s frame accurate as it doesn’t match the original 30p footage. Not sure how to make it frame accurate. Perhaps my math was off, b/c I speeding up the conformed footage 125.02%. Figured the difference b/t 23.976 & 29.975 is 25.025025%, so went with that. This works for this particular clip b/c it’s a race and no sync sound dialog. Hopefully Twixtor will have the same or better results and be able to sync.
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Thank you for setting me straight. And sorry about not seeing the part you mentioned in the training. You’ve convinced me. It looks great and I’m going to buy it. I really need a refresher!!
Thanks again!
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Thank you for taking the time to write all that. I used to be a lot more familiar with this stuff, but that was years ago and the world (that I could afford) was mini DV. Much has happened since then.
Yeah, I was just hoping against hope that somehow one card could transcode footage that already on the computer. Yeah, no way. You need something else in the loop. Like need to capture the through a capture card/ device, send from one capture card and ingest into another, etc. I’ve got a lot of footage in a number of different dimensions and frame rates that I’d like to be able to convert well to HD 30p or 24p. But, looks like there no easy way to do that.
Thanks again for your help!
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Thank you for that. I did find it some time ago. Looks like a great product and very affordable at the price. But, it seems to deal more with 24p and how to handle it whereas I’m trying to figure out 30p upresing, and getting to 24p. Once I’m to 24p, I should be good to go.
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Thank you again. About #1, will definitely test it. What exactly am I looking for? I know when I began editing (on a sequence with field orders, not progressive), there was choppy motion and stair-stepping on the edges. If that’s it, yeah, it was terrible. Was one of the reason I moved it to progressive.
#2 It’s definitely a messy process. Twixtor explains the process using Cinema Tools and getting the sync right here:
https://help.revisionfx.com/tutorial/47/There’s also a Compressor tutorial that’s all about how to do it w/ frame accuracy:
https://philipbloom.net/2009/05/30/how-to-convert-canon-5dmk2-footage-from-30p-to-24p/A few steps with each, but fairly straightforward. I’ll have to test and get back to you about my results.
The fun thing is, this is the majority of prep of my old files, but not all. I also have iPhone 4 (720p30) Kodak PlaySport (720p60) and another Playsport at 1080p30. All the Playsport stuff has horrible shitter roll to deal with as well.
So, I’ve got a lot of work!!
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Thank you Dave! I’ve been reading your posts here a post in trying to re-educate myself. Man, you really know your stuff. I appreciate it.
Ok, I’m just going to just adjust the setting in the Browser to “fields order: none” and stop worrying so much about that.
Regarding #1: I’ve done most of the work in a 30p (Fields order: none) sequence. Used both Uncompressed 8bit and ProRes 422. Is that still going to create problems with matching the motion of the progressive-scan footage? Sorry, haven’t heard of this and sounds like I’ve got more learning to do. Hopefully not AE as well!
Regarding #2: Was thinking of doing the process of making a copy of the movie, conforming in Cinema Tools to 24p, then speeding the footage back up in Twixtor (or Compressor) as Twixtor recommends. Am looking at Instant HD, BCC uprez, and Photozoom Pro 4 to upres. May be able to get a friend to do it w/ two Kona 3 cards. Any thoughts on which order to do things, i.e. frame rate change first then upres or upres then frame rate change?
Thanks again!
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Sorry, now I think I understand you. You’re saying don’t worry about the audio until the after the rough edit is done, when it is relink to the hi res footage, then deal with the audio (by duplicating the tracks in question, using gain filters, etc). So, no need to prep everything when I’m only going to need a fraction of the footage. Right?
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Thanks for the response, but I think you lost me. I did delete the no audio track. No need to pan the track w/ audio b/c both tracks are mono.
The audio was recorded too low (thank goodness the Tascam has such low noise), so I’d really like to duplicate the track with audio and have the resultant clip w/ two copies of the with audio track. Does that make sense? I’ve been trying to do this, but have run into issues with Media Manager as I described.
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Wow! That seems to have done the trick. THANKS!! If I create an HD ProRes sequence and add the picture it looks perfect. I added the SD sequence to this timeline and the same pic from the SD looks horrible. So, I think I’ve learned:
1- For some reason, some pics look terrible in SD sequences. Some look fine.
2- apparently FCP does some rendering when you bring one sequence to another, so it’s best to avoid this if possible–especially if you’re dropping a SD sequence into an HD sequence.
The problem is, copying/pasting a lot of the material from SD sequences (like still I move around the screen–kinda Ken Burns style) gets sized all funky in the HD sequence after pasting. Might be a lot of work to get them as they should be. But, I’d guess they’d also look better.
Crazy work arounds to do I suppose. Any suggestions on how to speed this up?
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[Steve Eisen] “This is the ONLY way to judge how your video will look. If you have it, use it. This will show you full detail if rendered properly on a calibrated TV monitor.”
I know and you’re exactly right. Again though, I’ve been out of this world for years and am behind. Think I’d like to wait for Thunderbolt solutions to get settled before buying something like a Kona or Matrox MXO.
I hear you about the standard def. But, it looks pretty awful even for that. Stills elsewhere in the video don’t look nearly as bad.