Ryan Orr
Forum Replies Created
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I highly doubt it. It would surprise me greatly if Canon did release a 60p firmware update…that’s if the 5DM2 can handle it.
Plus, I would bet that Canon has some new presents for us under development…something like the Panasonic AG-AF100 (it made it’s sneak debut at NAB this year). They probably will leave the 5DM2 in the dust while this is being worked on…plus they wouldn’t want the 5DM2 to compete with a new and awesome video camera. Loss of potential moneys.
Later,
Ryan -
Okay, I looked around a little, but I wasn’t able to find what I was looking for…
What framerate exactly can the GH1 w/ this new firmware hack have? Is it 30p, or 29.97?
Even if it has the right framerates for me, I still don’t think I’ll go with the GH1. Instead, I still like the 7D.
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For now, I’ve been “winging” it. Very non-professional, but shooting and editing lots will help me out. Plus, I’m one of those shooters that underexposes just a tad, so in post I can correct the exposure.
Eventually I will get myself a Marshall V-LCD651ST.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/621952-REG/Marshall_V_LCD651ST_HDMI_JM_V_LCD651ST_HDMI_JM_6_5_Field_Camera_Top_Monitor.htmlNeato.
Ryan -
Eww on the 7D kit. That lens isn’t very good. I’d go with buying just the 7D body, then searching around for a better, faster lens.
Personally, I would go with getting the Zoom H4n and do a dual recording method. Better sound with more control.
Those are NOT the correct memory cards for the 7D too. You need CF I/II type cards, not SDHD.
BTW, how are you going to archive your 32gig memory cards? Burning Blue Ray DVD? That will cost you a pretty penny. I personally would go with a few 8gig cards, and burn each to a Dual Layer DVD for archival. Sure, less recording time, but relatively cheaper in the long run to archive.
The tripod…ehhh…could be better, but you may be able to work with it. A good tripod is indispensable, and with these HDSLRs, you need good stabilizing gear.
My list is hear:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/wl/31D7F5E820No audio yet, since my work is primarily just being the B camera at weddings, and all I need to get is creative video. Eventually though, I’ll get a Zoom H4n and some wireless stuff if I need to.
Good Luck!
Ryan -
This is a good question! I need a good solution in mind when I start using these DSLRs myself.
My original idea was to use 8gig CF cards, and burn an exact DL-DVD copy of the card for archive. Or go the smaller way and use just 4gig cards and burn an exact copy to a regular DVD…although that would produce twice the amount of DVDs/Storage space.
I also entertained the idea of using BR-DVDs and just store the larger projects on there. Not only will the raw footage be on there, but also the ProRes422 files, the premier files, audio files…everything needed for a single project would fit on one single disk this way. The cost for a 50gig BR disk may be pretty hefty, so either you eat the price up, or pass the buck to your clients.
I personally don’t like the idea of using HDD to archive stuff for the long runs. It just seems to me that HDD fail quicker then properly stored DVDs…especially quality ones that are ment for archival purposes.
If you do use a DVD way of archiving, do it right.
* For archiving recordable (R) discs,discs that have a gold metal reflective layer are recommended. It’s said that with current disks, which are better sealed than they used to be, the use of gold as a reflecting layer is less important than it was, however it certainly doesn’t hurt!
* For general storage, a temperature between 4°C (39°F) and 20°C (68°F) is recommended with a relative humidity of 20% to 50%
* For long term storage, 18°C and 40% RH are recommended.
* For extended term archival storage even lower temperature and humidity are recommended.
* Storage in the dark, while not absolutely required, can’t hurt.Have Fun!
Ryan -
Personally, if I was in the field for the period of time you will be, I wouldn’t take a laptop.
I’d use something like this.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/656395-REG/MemoryKick_2MK500BK_500GB_Media_Center_SI.html
My ideal setup would be to lug around the 7d, a light, tripod, 3 CF cards, and this thing.
Once you’ve filled one card, dump it all to this thing while shooting on a different CF Card at the same time. And since it’s a solid state HD, you don’t have to worry about bumping it around. Now it’s all up to your battery life that will determine the length of time you’re out in the field.
Also, if you break this thing, your not down a $1,000 laptop.
Just my 2 cents,
Ryan -
My friend did not have a solution to focusing.
I can think of only two possible solutions.
1) Manually adjust the iris so that it is as closed as possible. Areas with large amount of light will let you do this. Also, Take off any ND filters, bring down the shutter as much as possible, adjust the ISO/Gain to it’s highest as you care to adjust it to, and add lights. By closing the iris, you widen your DOF. Most of your foreground, subject, and background will be in focus. Now you don’t have to be so focus aware.
2) The above solution only works so well, and since you’re speaking about a Canon 5D, I’m assuming you really want that thin, sexy DOF in the first place. The next practical solution would be a remote focus assembly of some sorts. About the hottest remote focus that I have seen would be the Redrock microRemote…and it’s not even out yet. Something like this would work phenomenally.
However, I don’t know how you are going to run a Glidecam and a focus puller at the same time. Maybe it’s just cuz I don’t have the skill/experience, but I would imagine that this will be near impossible, especially with your reference monitor all the way down by your knees.
Ryan
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I recently was able to get my hands on a Glidecam Pro 2000 to play around with and to get it working properly for a friend of mine. I believe he lent me a Panasonic AG-DVX100B to play around with, and I imagine a Sony EX1 would be about the same weight, so it should work.
The current model Glidecam has out now that would be comparable to the Pro 2000 would be most likely the Glidecam HD-2000. The 5D could be too light for it, but I would imagine some extra added weight to the top along with the camera, along with properly added weight to the bottom, and you should be alright.
The Glidecam I was test driving had the vest and a Glidecam smooth shooter also. If you’re planning on doing long shoots, I would definitely recommend getting a vest and arm. 5 minutes of straight shooting without it will result in a very worn out arm, and shaky shots.
Hope this helps 🙂
Ryan -
If I go into debt., can I be bailed out?
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I would love to experience the “Wow” factor…someone please buy me a 7D and some lenses…please???
I love the content these DSLRs are making, and I feel like I’m missing out on a great era.