Forum Replies Created

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  • When I listened to your sample, I heard:
    1) Acoustic background noise from other people talking.
    2) It almost sounded overmodulated and/or distorted at some audio peaks.
    3) Two VERY BRIEF “blips” toward the end.

    I assume it is (3) that you are referring to?
    It sounded like RFI from some sort of personal digital device. Although I’ve never heard any of that kind of interference that was SO VERY SHORT. Typically they are MUCH LONGER than that. If you hadn’t called it to our attention, I might have missed it.

    It is also possible that it could be an intermittent in your microphone or transmitter. I would test it offline by exercising all parts of the mic head, the mic cable, the connector where it plugs into the body-pack transmitter, etc. etc.

  • ” a tad of background noise, some fuzzy sounding stuff” does not sound like “interference” to me. Before you can start working on resolving a problem, you must accurately diagnose it first. Post some samples of what you are talking about and we can help diagnose it and then suggest practical solutions.

  • People use multiple wireless microphones all the time. There is no fundamental issue with using multiple wireless mics. Some big Broadway or Vegas stage shows use numbers approaching 100 wireless mics concurrently.

    You provided no information about your wireless microphones, particularly what channels they are operating on, so we are unable to help you there. Most wireless gear vendors have information that helps you select operating channels that are compatible without causing interference to other wireless mics.

    Generally, you can isolate the various pieces of equipment to identify where the problem is. Many (most?) wireless receivers have some way to hear the audio using headphones, etc, without plugging them into the mixer. And you can test the mixer/camera compatibility completely independently of the type of microphones you are using.

  • The Rode NT2 is NOT battery powered. Did you mean NTG2?

    It is not clear whether your GH3 camera provides plug-in power. If it does, then you need an adapter that blocks this DC voltage from going back into your microphones.

  • Richard Crowley

    February 18, 2013 at 4:30 pm in reply to: Disappearing Threads?

    I discovered this is because of the option to block “newbie” posts which appears to be defaulted “on”.

    I personally think this is a bad idea because everyone was a newbie once and had to start somewhere. And I’m sure those of us with lots of experience appreciate the help we received from others.

    Yes, there may be some who don’t want to be “bothered” with newbie posts, so they can go and check the box explicitly. But I would not have made it the default.

    I don’t see any option for deleting a post/thread when it is not relevant.

  • Richard Crowley

    February 17, 2013 at 2:54 pm in reply to: Looking for cheap and good lav mics

    Yes, the ATR 3350 is probably a decent mic for your application. Note that a higher-end, XLR mic like the one suggested by Mr. Alan will not work directly with the X1 as it does not have XLR inputs. You could use an adapter, but that would make it even more clunky.

    I’m a big Sony fanboy, but that rather old ECM44 design is battery-powered only and the battery case/XLR connector is almost as big as your X1 recorder.

    If you wanted a bit higher-end, something from Naiant or Oscar Sound Tech might be worth investigation.

    https://www.naiant.com/naiant/microphones.html

    https://oscarsoundtech.com/

  • While there may (by chance) be some people here who can help you with that question, it is WAY off-topic for this forum. Certainly there must be Mac forums that would be appropriate for this kind of question. If I was a Mac person I would either answer your question or direct you to an appropriate forum.

  • Richard Crowley

    January 19, 2013 at 5:09 pm in reply to: Question on settings in my Tascam audio recorder

    I agree that “Peak Reduction” would be my first choice to try. HOWEVER, it may not be optimal for ALL situations. I also agree that there is a large overlap in definitions of all those modes (except “Off”, of course). I would experiment and draw my own conclusions.

    It is even possible that “Auto” is the most appropriate mode for SOME situations. Depending on the actual performance of the circuit, and the habits of the presenter, the nature of any post-processing editing, the “consumption” of the final product, etc, etc.

  • Richard Crowley

    January 13, 2013 at 6:28 pm in reply to: How do you minimize plosives after the fact?

    Yes, I have gone in and “diddled” the actual waveform for sharp, single (or low-count multi-) cycle pertubations. I frequently “attenuate the aberrant waveform down to the average around it so it doesn’t change the timing, but almost makes it disappear. I use Adobe Audition and it is pretty easy to drag-n-drop individual sample values.

    Of course, a specialty tool like Izotope that Mr. Groom suggested is easier and faster if you can justify the $$$.

  • Richard Crowley

    January 11, 2013 at 6:20 pm in reply to: How do you minimize plosives after the fact?

    “The problem with a filter is it takes everything at that frequency out , even the audio at that freq that needs to stay, making it sound thin etc etc.”

    Indeed, that is why I apply it only to the few milliseconds where the pop occurs.

    “Izotope takes the pop out, nothing else.”

    Indeed. But sometimes just removing a couple of pops isn’t worth several hundred more $$$.

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