Pete Burger
Forum Replies Created
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[Stuart Samuels] “The thing is the resulting files are about 3 times bigger than the originals.
Is that normal?”Yes, that’s normal. H.264 is extremely compressed, while ProRes isn’t. The good thing with ProRes is, your computer doesn’t have to decompress your clips while editing, so you’ll be able to edit much smoother and faster. The downside is the huge amount of space, ProRes needs.
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Christian Reid] “But what I don’t get is the reason why shooting in multiple numbers (1/60 at 30fps) gives me less rolling shutter than shooting 30fps at non-multiple shutter speeds, even when they are faster, like 1/160.”
I wasn’t aware of that. Doesn’t make any sense to me either… Hmmm… Have to try that myself.
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Christian Reid] why does one need to be a multiple of the other?”
Framerate and shutterspeed interact. Most of the time film-cameras shoot with 24 frames per second and a shutterspeed of 48. So each frame is exposed 1/48 of a second. The shutterspeed determines the amount of motion blur that’s in the frame.
If you use higher shutterspeeds, you get some strobing motion because of the lack of motion blur. That can of course be a creative choice – well known examples: “Private Ryan”, “Gladiator”, etc…
Using slower shutterspeeds increases the motion blur. You get some “ghosting” effects. Often used in dream-like sequences.Double the shutterspeed than the framerate gives you a balance. Doesn’t strobe. Doesn’t give you ghosting.
The sensor scans a picture from top to bottom each frame. So, when you record fast horizontal motion like a car that drives by and use a slow shutterspeed and/or slower framerates the car moves during the “scanning” of the sensor –> skewing
It’s like moving a piece of paper while scanning it on your desktop scanner – if you understand what I try to say.
When you use higher framerates and/or shutterspeeds, the car does not have time to move as far as with faster shutterspeeds/framerates –> less skewing.
So, turning up shutterspeed should help a bit, but you’ll get strobing motion, which you normally don’t want. The only way to avoid Rolling Shutter skewing ist to record with higher framerates, which is on most consumer and prosumer cameras not possible.
You can shoot 50p or 60p with the 720p mode of the MkII, can’t you? You’ll notice lesser skewing than with FullHD.
Hope this helps a bit!
Ahhh, and excuse my english. I think I could have been more to the point, but I lack a lot of vocabulary and grammar :/
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Bob Dix] “Oddly enough over the past two years I only use IS lens and better panning techniques and I have never had the “rolling shutter problem” maybe just lucky.”
Have to get better lenses to try! Thanks for the tipp! Yes, slow and smooth panning does a lot good!
I still like to work with my V1 even with it’s CMOS. Great camera, glad I got it.
Weather in Bavaria is a pain at the moment… drops from 30°C to 15°C, then back up to 30°C… 🙁
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Bob Dix] “but, with smooth panning and the right Canon IS lens (…) you can eliminate your problem.”
Hey Bob, could you explain that further? I agree with the “smooth panning”, but how does stabilized lenses come to play with rolling shutter issues? They’re caused by the sensor and the way it reads the picture information, aren’t it?
[Bob Dix] “Using an older Pro tape videocamcorder will also fix the issue and still retain HD quality.”
That’s good advice! But you’ll have to get shure to use a camcorder with CCD and not a CMOS sensors. Got the same rolling shutter issues with my Sony HVR-V1 (CMOS) and haven’t them with the FX1 or Z1 (both CCD).
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
Glad, I helped, Christian!
I forgot another plugin called “Mercalli Pro” by Prodad. It’s german though, not sure if they provide an english version. But it is a bit more affordable.
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
Don’t know if you’re still interested, but just found this by accident:
https://blog.planet5d.com/2012/07/daily-planet5d-13-using-the-5d-as-a-webcam/
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
I own the the T2i (purchased it for video), but have also done professional photography with it. 18 megapixels are more than enough for poster prints, but the sheer number of pixels don’t say anything about the picture quality. Don’t fall into the trap of comparing cameras based on pixelcounting.
I’d recommend to go to the Canon website and do a comparison of the various models. You can then see more clearly what the different models provide and decide what you really need.
The T3i is a great stills camera but has fewer features than the more professional models. But from a picture quality view IMHO all the APS-C models create comparable pictures if you use the same lenses.
Bear in mind, that if you purchase a smaller model, you’d maybe have more money to spend for lenses. And lenses are the single most important quality factor of a camera. You can change the camera body later but keep the lenses.
For *my* purposes (and the very few professional stills shoots I had/have) the smaller camera is great.
Just my two cents
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Christian Reid] ” Do you know of any ways to avoid that kind of distortion on the future AND to correct the distorted images in post-production?”
There’s no real way to avoid those distortions, other than avoing to record fast movement or moving the camera too fast…
Here’s a nice article about “Rolling Shutter” and the skewing and wobbling with some insight: https://dvxuser.com/jason/CMOS-CCD/The Foundry provides a Plugin that seems to at least reduce the effects in post: https://www.thefoundry.co.uk/products/rollingshutter/
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo -
[Chris Wright] “i humbly disagree with sticking to one specific lighting technique”
Chris, maybe you got me wrong. I didn’t want to say that lightig alone will give you “this or that specific look”.
What I meant is, that in my experience lighting is often forgotten as a valuable technique to get more “film-like” pictures like in the example. Lighting (or in this case diffusing harsh sunlight, blocking it, bouncing it etc.) is *one* method to get closer to the desired look.
And if I look at the provided comparisons, what I see (especially in the second example) is that you can get closer to the “original”, if you’d use a soft fill light. The Maroon 5 pictures are much more evenly and a bit softer lit.I totally agree with you, that a lot can be done in post (and has to be done in post) to achieve exactly what the TO wants.
Sorry, if I made myself unclear!
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“Tragedy is a close-up; comedy, a long shot.” – Buster KeatonMe on Twitter (english/german)
https://twitter.com/FastFoodVideo