Forum Replies Created

Page 14 of 16
  • Oki Pienandoro

    August 25, 2014 at 6:44 am in reply to: Encore CS 6 ALWAYS crashes on FIRST build attempt!

    It happened to me in the past, although not similar (Encore is freeze almost every time i transcode).

    The solution :
    Transcode/encode the main video separately on Adobe Media Encoder with mpeg-dvd. Then import the encoded files to Encore as timeline. Never fails me again. In fact, i never bother to use premiere pro dynamic link again (and it’s useless anyway since i upgrade to CC).

    Note : Encore still do the transcode for menu, audio, etc. But not transcoding the main video because it’s already comply mpeg spec.

    I believe the problem were because my system is not powerful/compatible enough to do long encoding within encore.

    Do try that, see if it get rid your problem.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 21, 2014 at 8:32 pm in reply to: Update missing and not queueing.

    Just do clean uninstall using Adobe Cleaner, then reinstall CC again.
    Guide :
    https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/cs5-cleaner-tool-installation-problems.html

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 20, 2014 at 12:19 pm in reply to: Mocha, export the planar surface

    Well,..you can always make solid, set solid to make a comp size, paste mocha corner pin data on that solid, then set alpha matte on your footage to that solid.
    Then you can either export them as image sequence, or if you intended to edit one frame, just use Composition|Save Frame As.

    Sorry if this is not helpful..

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • If you’re in doubt, just test using solid, make that solid same as comp size, pasted mocha data at the very first frame.

    Yes it will distorted, but it will corner pin correctly. There’s no need to applied corner pin effect before hand, Mocha corner pin data IS the effect it self (don’t be confused with mocha transform data).

    If you want undistorted replacement, you can use stabilize precomp.

    You should see Mathias Mohl tutorial, he also cover some of the common new user mistakes.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 19, 2014 at 4:56 pm in reply to: offline clip

    If you opened the project files directly in Text viewer like NotePad++, maybe you can track down the original path/name.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 18, 2014 at 10:34 pm in reply to: Media Management:Locating Original Files

    I made a very simple test project file to simulate your problem, and trying to come up with solution.

    STEP 1:

    • Basically all i did was import two video files into premiere (Clip 01.mov & Clip 02.mov)
    • Put both the files on timeline
    • Make random overlap edit
    • Save project
    • Exit Premiere

    STEP 2:

    • Rename above files in step 1 respectively to Clip AA.mov & Clip BB.mov
    • Make new project in premiere (but didn’t put the files into sequence or made any sequence)
    • Save project
    • Exit Premiere

    Simply put, what i did in step 2 was ONLY put the files into project windows, WITHOUT making any sequence, then save premiere project.

    Therefore i have two project files to compare to see what info in Step 2 project that were still retain the same info from the original project in step 1.

    Since i use CC 2014, we can’t open both project directly in Text Editor since it was still in compressed format.

    STEP 3:

    • I use winrar to open the project
    • Extract the content a.k.a the uncompressed project files (do note, you will have a premiere project file without extension)

    STEP 4 (This step might be unnecessary, you can skip to step 5):

    • Open the uncompressed project files in Notepad++
    • Save as XML files.

    STEP 5
    Compare the files using your preferred file comparison program, i use Beyond Compare :
    https://www.scootersoftware.com/index.php

    Info :

    • Left column is the original project files, the right column is the project i made in STEP 2
    • The red text is where the difference occur, the black text is where the info is the same on both column.

    (click the image will take you to imgur website, then click again to enlarge to full size):

    As you can see from the box green i made, you can recognize the original filenames based on “AlternateStart” and/or “ContentAndMetadataState”.
    Also even if you rename the files, they still use the original conformed peak audio files (see the bottom green box)
    With this info, you can track down what the original filename was.

    Furthermore, you can also track down based on MediaIn/Out info (assuming there are NO IDENTICAL RUNTIME ON DIFFERENT CLIP:


    I’m really sorry if this turns out a very wrong info, this is just a very simple test files with two clips, random edit with no effect etc at all.

    Oh, one more thing..BACKUP your files before you open them in your compression program, during one of my earlier test, the project were corrupted somehow.
    So there, i put disclaimer. I’m not responsible for any damage.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 18, 2014 at 2:35 pm in reply to: Throwing in a background without greenscreen

    Maybe he mean this one ?

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    Game of Thrones, Season 4 – VFX making of reel from Mackevision on Vimeo.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Oki Pienandoro

    July 18, 2014 at 2:22 pm in reply to: offline clip

    Hmm,..in CC 2014, if you right click in project windows and choose link media, they give you the real Clip name compare to the rename clip.

    I test this for you by using single audio clip, the clip on drive is “distorto long.wav”, and the rename clip is “replace”. I moved the clip on the drive, and premiere gave me this :

    As you can see, the original clip name information before renaming is still exist.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • Just in case you didn’t receive reply notification on your email, i’ve replied in here :
    https://forums.creativecow.net/thread/8/1184336#1184338

    Edit: wrong link, i’ve corrected to the real link.
    PS : Sorry if turns out to be wrong info, i’m a newbie in terms of timecode generator sync.

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

  • I have similar issue with recent production with Canon Camera (We use Mark III).
    The specific problem that we’ve had is we point and shoot, not shooting long take, and we often must to change battery (turn on off)
    We didn’t use any timecode generator (because we have to cover large area) or jam-sync. We think we can manually set the timecode on external audio and camera, then offset in post.

    However, this approach turns out came out very wrong.
    Sometimes the Canon timecode is drifting couple of frames later. But sometimes it can drift more than 20frames, sometimes it even earlier.
    Because the drift is NOT constant, we can’t offset in post.

    On many blog/forum, people use jam-sync / manual sync on static camera (interview, event), long take. So not many people experience this drifting issue. Since all they have to do is sync occasionally.

    Due the nature of our production (documentary like, hundreds of clips) we simply cannot check whether the timecode is sync every time we shoot.

    On my research, this occur on all canon camera because they didn’t use ambient timecode generator thing (i forgot the exact term). Simply put, this problem is occured because the way canon sync timecode internally with their internal clock when the camera is powered back on.

    Also i came across this post (applies to XF Series, C300, C500):
    https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-xf-series-hd-camcorders/519559-fine-point-about-xf-cinema-eos-multi-cam-time-code.html
    Excerpt from the post :
    When the camera is turned off, the internal time-of-day clock continues to run. However, there is no power running to the time code generator and it therefore is not running.
    The camera re-establishes time code when turned on again by analyzing the internal clock and comparing where the time code was when the camera was turned off and computes where the time code should be when it is turned back on.
    The catch is that the internal clock is only accurate to the second but not to the frame, so when the time code is re-established it may be off by any number of frames in a second.
    To keep your cameras frame-accurate, you can do any of the following:

    • Leave the camera powered ON.
    • Use Power Save mode (XF cameras) or the equivalent Lens Exchange feature (C500 only). Canon confirmed that power to the TC generator will be maintained. Note that this option doesn’t apply to the C300. It is either ON or OFF; no Lens Exchange mode.
    • Attach a Lockit Box which is a separate time code generator that will override the camera’s time code.
    • Each time the camera is powered back on, re-sync the time code.


    This is turns out is documented in C300 Manual (page 89).
    https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/products/professional_cameras/cinema_eos_cameras/eos_c300#BrochuresAndManuals
    Here’s the excerpt:

    When an external time code signal is received, the camcorder’s own time code will be synchronized to it and the synchronization will be maintained even if you disconnect the cable from the TIME CODE terminal.
    However, performing any of the following actions while the cable is not connected will cause the synchronization to be disrupted; the correct time code will be restored once you reconnect the cable.
    – Turning the camcorder off/on
    – Changing the operating mode to mode
    – Changing the video configuration
    – Changing the frame rate

    So what can we do ? Because we HAVE to turn the camera off often.
    And most timecode generator is required constant connection (wired). This is simply un-applicable on our cases.

    So there are two options we have in mind next time we want to sync.

    Please keep in mind, i don’t personally test this, i only research this for future production :

    1. Time code buddy (Wifi Method)
    https://www.timecodebuddy.com/
    The downsize is this is too pricey on our budget 🙁

    2. DSLR Sync (FM radio method)
    https://www.dslrsync.com/
    I want to try this since the software is FREE !

    The hardware is just mp3 player with FM transmitter, you can use any the client capable FM receiver (phone, or a really cheap FM receiver)

    Basically what this app do is :

    • Generating the timecode from mp3 files (you have to make a blank mp3 as long as needed).
    • Put the mp3 into the software, and they overwrite that mp3 with timecode info.
    • Playback the mp3 on FM Transmitter
    • Receive mp3 in FM receiver which connected in all your camera & external audio devices
    • After recording, put the clip in the software again to AUTO SYNC !

    There are things to consider though, you have to test the lag etc (just read their forum for more info)

    Personally, if i have the budget, i’d go with timecode buddy since it was not restricted to mp3 runtime (24 hours of mp3 playback continuously ???)

    Sorry for the long post 🙁

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    Sorry for the english, not native speaker.

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