Forum Replies Created

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  • Lloyd Coleman

    June 22, 2007 at 5:07 pm in reply to: Importing Still Images and Keeping Them Big

    Expanding on Steven’s workflow he posted below. If you already have your pictures in the timeline you can right click on the picture and un-check the ‘scale to frame size’ item. This will restore your picture in the timeline to its original size and you will be able to zoom and pan without a loss of resolution.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    June 22, 2007 at 4:23 pm in reply to: Importing Still Images and Keeping Them Big

    In the menu go to ‘Edit’ then “Preferences’ then ‘General’ and un-check the box that says ‘Default scale to frame size’

    As a side note, I have found that sizing my still pictures so they are about 1200-1500 pixels wide gives me the best results in most cases. It is large enough to allow me to zoom and pan, but it keeps the files size much smaller and easier for Premiere to work, especially if you have many of them in the project. The smaller size also reduced much of the flicker you will get when zooming on pictures that have horizontal lines because they are not as sharp as the larger pictures and DV has problems displaying sharp lines, especially when moving.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    April 19, 2007 at 6:49 pm in reply to: best way to capture video from VHS?

    You are better off with a device that will convert your VHS movies into an AVI file format. The cards or breakout boxes like you mentioned from Canopus and others are a good way to go. I have not used these much, but know that there are some available for under $100 that work well. I have seen kits from Pinacle that include a breakout box and editing software for this price (although the editing software won’t compare to Premiere Pro that you are using).

    Another option is using a video camera with digital pass through. Many digital video cameras (DV or Digital 8) have this feature. If you have a digital camera or have access to one, check and see if they will allow you to plug in an analog source from your VCR with an RCA or other cord and output to your computer through firewire.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    April 16, 2007 at 2:22 am in reply to: Upgrading to CS3

    The free upgrade to CS3 will work if you purchase an upgrade to PPro 2.0 now. I did check this on the phone with Adobe and made sure that CS3 did include Encore.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    April 15, 2007 at 10:44 pm in reply to: Upgrading to CS3

    You can upgrade to Premiere Pro 2.0 now for $199 and you will be upgraded to CS3 for free when it comes available. I confirmed with Adobe that the free upgrade to CS3 will include Encore. That will save you $100 and give you a chance to use Premiere Pro for a few months before CS3 comes out. There is a learning curve coming from 6.5, but it is a MUCH better program.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    March 28, 2007 at 9:40 pm in reply to: Is this website a scam???

    If you type in the name of the store in the site that Don posted (resellerratings.com)you can see a rating for the stores you mentioned and comments from people that have used them. Both of the stores you listed rated less than 1/10 with the typical horror stories from customers that have used them. If you look at a reputable site like B&H Photo you will see a rating of 9.55/10. B&H has the XL2 body only for $2,900. Read a few of the comments about the other stores on Resseller Ratings and see if you want to send them your money.

  • It seems you are talking about 3 seperate things.
    1. Slower – the action will be real time with any frame rate or shutter speed if played back at the same rate it was shot. If you want it slower you must slow the footage down in edit or shoot it faster and play it at regular speed (not available with most prosumer cams).

    2. Blurred – Generally motion blur is produced by reducing the shutter speed at any frame rate. You can be shooting at 24 frames/sec, but if you shutter is 1/1000 each frame will be crisp with no motion blur.

    3. The choppy effect can be a result of the frame rate. At slower frame rates the subject has more time to move between frames. If you are shooting at a fast frame rate there is little movement between frames and when viewed as a video the motion looks smooth. If the frame rate is slower, the subject moves more between each frame and there are fewer of them per second. This can look choppy.

    The choppy look and the blurred look can work against each other. If you shoot at a higher shutter speed it will increase the choppy look because each frame is frozen and you notice how much movement has taken place between frames, but you will reduce the blurred effect. If you shoot at a slower shutter speed you will increase the motion blur, but because the motion is smeared, each frame will appear to blend together. You will have to play with differnt setting to get the look you want. Of course proper exposure is also part of the equation so depending on the amount of light you have it may limit some of your choices.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    March 20, 2007 at 1:58 pm in reply to: Installation order question…

    Vincent, are you saying this because you know that it does not matter or are not aware of why it may matter? I don’t know with these specific programs, but in the past it has made a difference with some programs. Some needed to be installed first so that the remaining programs would know that they were there and were able to share plug-ins and other resources and ‘talk’ to each other.

    Thanks

  • Lloyd Coleman

    March 11, 2007 at 7:08 am in reply to: Buying New Camera – Can I use Pro with any HDs?

    You may still want to consider an HD camera even if you can’t edit it yet. The Canon HV10 and soon HV20 are under $1,000 and will allow you to tape in high def, but will convert to standard def when you capture. This would allow you to edit your stuff now and would also give you a high def version for the future. They also have a digital pass through that will allow you to hook up your VHS machine or other analog sources like your High8 and capture digitally through them to your computer. I am not familiar with the Sony cameras, but would be very suprised if they don’t have the same features as the Canons.

  • Lloyd Coleman

    March 4, 2007 at 7:51 am in reply to: Opening project…

    In the project folder there should be a folder called ‘Premiere Pro Auto-Save’ If your settings are at the default I think you should have 5 versions of your project saved, one every 20 minutes. Look at the time and date of each version because number 5 is not always the most recent. Open the most recent version. This should give you a version of your project that has only lost the last 20 minutes of work at the most.

    If this does not work you can open a new project with the same settings as the one you can’t open and then import the the old project into the new one. You should find a folder in the project tab that contains all the assets of the old project.

    Good luck. I hope one of these works for you.

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