Kevin Hamm
Forum Replies Created
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Since it’s so easy to fix, it’s probably not something to get all overworked about. However, if you are having the issue that it’s playing in “mono” because you are hearing it out of only, say, the left speaker and not the right one, that’s actually the “pan” setting is off. Move it back to the center and you’re good to go.
Also, if you have your timeline active with the “unlinked select” or whatever it’s actually called, all your audio is treated as mono lines because you have opted to select each individual track of a clip in your timeline on it’s own rather than keeping them as a contained unit of one-video-plus-two-stereo-audio-tracks.
Hope that helps.
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Ok, I’m a bit slow because I haven’t use your process for doing simple text and whatnot. So I want to know, do you save and quit motion and flip back to Final Cut and the clip isn’t there because you unchecked the “embed motion project” box? I’ve never done that, myself, but it would seem reasonable that what would happen is that you’d have a clear space in the timeline where the items that you used to send to motion for a new project were. Can you flip to the finder and simply drag and drop your motion project?
I tend to avoid the import command because the dialog box is too small and doesn’t always give me enough space to see what I need to make sure I’m getting the right file.
The other thing, are you trying to import the xxx.motn file to the timeline, or a rendered .mov to the timeline?
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No, the aperture settings in the Sequence Settings for the video. If you choose the Anamorphic checkbox to be checked, your video will export, and therefore will play, correctly.
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Well, if both versions of Final Cut are on the same start-up disc, that could very well be the problem. I know that if you had 4 and 4.5 (n
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You’re very welcome!
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Ted, don’t get discouraged, we’re here to help.
First off, your sequences are mutable in FCP 6, so if the timecode is changing it’s most likely due to the timecode of the first clip in your timeline being different that what you want for output. To solve this, create a clip at the timecode you knwo you need, make it a black slug, and give it the correct timecode. Put that at the beginning and your timecode won’t change on you again.
Secondly, that note that you’re getting is popping up because you are capturing beyond the timecode on the tape. So, since there is black video source coming from the deck but no timecode, it sees it as a ‘dropped frame’ – which it is, kinda, but the wording there could be better. Check your import, but I doubt you’ll find any black frames or broken images. And if you don’t, go forth and edit.
If you do, you might have a hardware issue where your communication from the deck through your computer to your disk is not functioning at the highest level. Swap firewire cables (these do wear out if you bend them lots) and make sure your connections are firm.
Good luck!
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Ok, so that’s not likely the problem, but you still haven’t told us what your sequence settings in FCP actually are. You say you’ve tried tons of codecs, but what is it set to right now?
More importantly, what is the final format of this project? If you give us that, we’ll be able to give you better help.
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Well, I’m using new tape and capturing from the head to the end of the timecode, which is, today, 42 minutes give or take, and I’m not having the problem that you are experiencing. I’m also doing a multi-cam edit (although not using multi-cam clips because it’s actually faster without for this) so we’re having analogous needs, just not analogous issues. I thought I’d try the drive pull trick and let you know that it might be the source of your problems – the Finder can mess with anything, and usually does at the wrong time. I wasn’t disregarding your thoughts, just offering another possibility.
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While you’re waiting to finish this project before you upgrade, I thought of something else that might work for you. i’m going to presume that you have three 1GB sticks in your memory slots. Actually, no, I’m going to hope you don’t, and that instead you have two 512MB sticks and two 1GB sticks in the computer. Doesn’t really matter, just check to see if you have to have parallel memory sticks in before you try the following:
Remove a stick of RAM (or a pair of sticks, if you have to for it to work) and try playing in motion after you restart. If it crashes, put that RAM back and take out another. See if you’ve got bad RAM that the system isn’t catching at startup.
If you do, just get a new RAM stick, they be cheap.
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What style are you looking for? I can think of two.
First would be three to six concentric arcs appear from the pulsing top of a tower and move in a direction and fade out as they get larger.
Second would be a series of concentric circles, again centered on the top of the tower that appear to grow outwards and then have a pulsing light or swelling of some sort to make it look like they are still in motion.
Provided I’ve covered your vision, here’s what I would do.
1 draw tower
2 draw an arc that fades on both ends
3 place arc next to tower on canvas
4 using the timeline below, pick a frame where I want this animation to start and move the arc to that frame
5 change the arc to a particle emitter
6 give the particle emitter the effect called “Throw”
7 set the HUD controls for Throw so that it’s just one arrow in the direction I want, and make it big enough to move the arc particles off the screen.
8 add the effect “fade in and out” to the arc particle emitter, move the HUD controls so it has only 3 frames to fade in and 35 frame to fade out.Now the only thing to do is adjust the particle emitter parameters in the Inspector panel (on the left) and make sure you’re getting a consistent number of particles emitted in a constant direction with a visually pleasing pulse to them.
If you were going to do the full circle bit, I would use the emitter, but just have the circles scale over life to something ridiculously big and do the rest basically the same. Although, if you have the tower on land you may want to duplicate just the land and put it above the circles in your layer order to mask out the circles as they hit the ground.
Hope this helps.