John Sharaf
Forum Replies Created
-
Dan,
That’s great to hear. I hope you come away with the understanding that lighting is not brain surgery and should not be over-thought. Your initial instincts are usually right and the difficulty inevitably comes from self-censoring because of cost (either of gear or labor). The challenge is therefore not to think of an alternate plan, but how to accomplish what you know you must do!
JS
-
No can do. EX1 does not have tc connectors. Hit sticks or put tc from EX3 on audio track if you can read it in post
-
Yes, they are prone breaking and cracking. It’s happened to me, but so will aluminum which bends and just about every other material used in tripod legs, I’ve yet to see titanium legs but that surely will come.
JS
-
Ben,
The use of a 10bit recorder such as the AJA Ki nPro is a way of leveraging the better quality of many cameras vis-a-vis their accompanying recorder. In the case of you EX1 it puts out a 10 bit 422 signal through the SDI spigot as well as embedded audio (assuming you connect your audio to the cameras XLR-ins). Transfer is just as you describe it only it’s a file transfer so quicker than real time and the resulting quality is significantly better and visible on a big screen. The difference between 8 bit and 10 bit is 256 shades of gray (and each color) vs. 1024 shades or gradations. The bigger number rules by a power of four! While most displays are currently 8 bit, this will be changing quickly to 10 bit devices and your material shot in 10 bit will be evergreen in it’s superior quality.
JS
-
The Chimera system for such a light is really two pieces, a dedicated speed ring which has a socket and globe and a light bank. It probably takes a few more seconds to setup and a little more space to safely transport, but the advantage is that the light bank can be re-purposed to other instruments.
JS
-
I used power cord adapters all last summer on my 120v/800w Jokers with no problem whatsoever. Just adhere to the rating nomenclature on the adapters and you’ll be ok. Of course, changing out the connector for the proper one is a slicker scenario, but as I recall, the writer said he did not feel confident in his skills to do so.
JS
-
If you don’t feel capable of “re-wiring”, just use ready made UK-US adapters. with the correct globes this is no problem.
JS
-
Extra wattage will not overpower. With Letus, you’ll need more light as you well know, so relamp all the globes with the daylite colored.
JS
-
Dan,
You are thinking clearly; you’ll really need five lights total. Two for the backing and three ()key, fill, backlight) for the subject.
My favorite method of lighting the backing is two Kino Flo 4’Twobank or 4’Fourbank. If you added these to the ARRI kit you’d have it made.
JS
-
All you need to do is make a Y-pigtail so that the two 120v lights are in series. Both lights will need to be turned on to complete the circuit. I wish i could draw you a picture (worth a thousand words) but essentially from the two holes that come out of the wall (forget the ground) one goes to each light, them another wire goes between the two lights on their other connection, they are now in series such that 120+120=240. Lighting units that have two globes (like two-lite FAY or 2K softlights) can be internally rewired this way for 220-240.
JS