[Jeff Hinkle]

Sorry for the confusion. It’s hard to describe.

So right now I have three Talent precomps, all identical, each with the same talent images in the same position: Talent 1, Talent 2, Talent 3. Talent 1 lives in Screen 1, Talent 2/Screen 2, Talent 3/Screen 3. And it works. But any time we need to add/remove/change talent, it has to be updated the same in all three Talent precomps, which opens up a lot of room for error.

My hope is that Talent 1 can somehow live in Screens 1, 2, and 3 and provide the talent images (driving them, in my gibberish) for each Screen so we only need to update the one Talent precomp.

Hopefully that’s clearer.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

And just for added fun, if I export to PSD layers, everything is once again a pixel too large. But if I copy and paste each piece individually into Photoshop, they maintain their correct sizes. Is it something Illustrator is doing on save? At this point I’m just going to avoid Illustrator for anything size-critical that’s going into another application, but I am curious what’s the cause.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Thanks for the links, but it’s not really a question of things looking off. On import, the AI layers are physically 1 pixel larger in each direction. I’m sure I can make it work, but I want to know why it’s doing it and how to prevent it. Seems like a 1100×600 object in AI shouldn’t suddenly become a1101x601 object in AE.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Looks like your Paint Style (bottom of the Stroke panel) is set to Reveal Original Image. Switch that to On Transparent and you should be good.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

You’ll get much more consistent results by not using the Eraser tool at all and just using the Brush tool at all times. Paint with black in your mask layer to hide the image, paint with white to reveal it. Hit D to set your colors to default black and white, then X to toggle between them as you paint. Quick, efficient way of working.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Looks really good. About the only suggestion I’d make would be to desaturate your paper layer a little sothe color isn’t quite so solid.

There’s no end of tweaks you can make to any Photoshop project, but this says “page out of old book” quite well.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Nice job! Looks nice and clean.

There are a couple ways to make a solid color layer. Simplest is probably just clicking the Adjustment Layer button at the bottom of the Layers panel (looks like a little half-black/half-white circle) and choose Solid Color. Put that layer below your scan layer and set the scan layer to Multiply to only have the dark pixels show on top of the color.

For paper texture, I’d hunt for some free textures online (there are several sites that offer this) or scan your own paper with a good amount of texture in it. Put it at the top of your layer stack and experiment with opacity and blending modes to find an effect you like: Overlay, Soft Light, Luminosity, Multiply…

The hard part is done. Now is when you get to tweak and experiment.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

I’d probably hit it with the Levels, brighten the whites and midtones to remove the bleedthrough text and then darken the blacks to firm up the print you want to keep. Might have to hit the edge shadows with the Dodge tool to wipe out the rest of the bleedthrough. Once you have it clean, you can set its blend mode to Multiply and put it over a layer filled with the page color to keep it from looking too black-and-white. A little noise and paper texture will bring back the “old book” look if that’s something you want to keep.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Hard to say without seeing your screen. Sounds like that should give you the result you want provided you’re in RGB color space, not viewing a single color channel, or have a blending mode selected on your eye layer. I will say that if your “antique” version of Photoshop offers Adjustment Layers, you’d likely get better results using a Black and White adjustment layer (which allows you to better control the brightness values of individual shades) and just masking out the eye area you want to keep in color.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Command-click works. It stops drawing the current path and lets you start drawing the next. So, Pen tool, click/ click-drag to make points, Command-click to stop drawing that path, then release Command and keep clicking. You’ll get a new path each time you start clicking after a Command-click.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.