Jeff Carpenter
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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The only drives I’ve seen that are powered by the data connection tend to be smaller and slower. Things like 10 GB 4200 rpm drives. Or, you know, the iPod, which goes up to 60 GB but is still very slow compared to an actual hard drive.
In other words, drives that are competing with keychain flash drives, not full sized hard drives.
For what you want to do I don’t think you’ll find anything that’s self-powered and meets your needs.
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If you’re doing ANYTHING with video you should keep looking for a firewire hookup.
The speed of firewire and USB2 is the same when averaged over time. So a 100 MB file will copy in about the same amount of time on each drive. But the firewire connection will stay more consistent whereas a USB connection will hit higher points and lower points. Over time, they average out to the same amount of data in the same amount of time, but for video the low-points in USB means dropped frames.
That’s annoying while editing and downright unacceptable when it comes to capturing from tapes.
USB is great for things like iPods and cell phones and digital cameras. It’s even fine for hard drives that don’t need to capture and play live media. But if you’re going to edit any video, stick to firewire.
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https://www.ambrosiasw.com/utilities/snapzprox/
SnapZ Pro
It’s $70, but I hear it works very well. “Works well” is usually worth $70 instead of trying out a dozen free or cheap programs.
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In the log-and-capture window, click on the “Clip Settings” tab.
Turn off what you don’t need. In this case, the video.
Do this before logging and remember to turn it back ON before you log something else in the future.
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Is this going to shown on widescreen TVs? If so, you have 2 choices. Do you want A) the 4×3 video centered in the middle of the 16×9 frame so that it has black bars on the side or B) do you want the video blown up so that it fits a 16×9 frame, but loses some of the image and is soft from having been blown up?
If this video is going to be seen on 4×3 TVs, then you want to C) have a 4×3 project where the 16×9 footage is letterboxed.
You have to pick one of those choices, but once you do we can help you make it work.
(If this project could be seen on both kinds of TVs you may have to pick more than ONE of those choices and maket two different master versions, one for each type of viewing.)
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For the best quality you should choose EXPORT > COMPRESSOR right from the Final Cut menu and let it compress your MPEG2 file and Dolby audio file right out of the Final Cut timeline. You can then import those into DVD Studio Pro.
This method will take longer than using Compressor in stand-alone mode or importing a .mov file into DVDSP, but you’ll get better results. (A LOT longer, in some cases, but if you have the time, go for it.) The main reason this is better is that Compressor knows where all of your edits and transitions are and will spend more processing time on those areas.
Secondly, I’ve been told the reason this takes longer is that Final Cut takes anything that needs rendering (like color corrected video or transitions) and renders them into an uncompressed format. It then takes THAT render and makes your DVD file from it. It’s not something that will increase the quality of the video from the original footage, but it is something that will help it to not lose so much quality during the whole down-conversion process.
As for which settings to use, I’d start with the pre-sets in Compressor. You can make duplicates and fiddle with them if you like. You might want to try one and then see how large the file comes out. If it’s 5 GB, go in and lower the quality. If it’s 3 GB, raise it and try again. A lot of this is trial and error work. Good luck and let us know if you hit any snags along the way.
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I’ve always just used Apple’s iCal, Mail, and Address Book. They work together in such a way that I kind of consider them a single program that’s just been split up into 3 icons on the dock.
I know a lot of people use the other programs that Ben suggested, so they’re probably find options too.
But I’ve always been perfectly happy with the programs that come on my Mac so I’ve never felt the need to try any of them myself.
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This is from the Apple website:
During installation, the Windows XP installer asks me to format the Windows partition using NTFS or FAT. Which should I use?
If the partition is 32 GB or smaller, you can use either FAT or NTFS. If it’s larger than 32 GB, then you can only format it using NTFS. Mac OS X can read and write FAT volumes, but only read NTFS volumes. Refer to the Windows XP documentation if you are not sure which best suits your needs.
= = = =This means that FAT32 willl let OS X write to the Windows drive. I know for a fact that that works. Unfortunately, I’m not positive, but I don’t know if Windows can see OS X!
If someone here can tell you otherwise, great, but if not I think your best bet is to buy a 1 GB flash drive and just use that to put files on and off of as you restart. Also remember that boot camp is still a Beta program. Once OS X.5 comes out next year I’m sure this kind of thing will be MUCH more streamlined. So any workaround you figure out might only have to last you a few months.
You can read the whole Boot Camp FAQ here:
https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303572#faq0 -
But the camera works without the drive?
Strange, the drive should be acting as a hub. Since it’s not, you can just go out and spend $34 and get one of these:
The speed-performance of using that would be the same daisy chaining the drive, so it’s still a temporary solution, but for $34 it might be worth the cash.
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You can daisy-chain the camera. Plug it into the drive and then plug the drive into the computer. It will work.
It’s not the best system, you’re right to be waiting for an expresscard, but at the moment it will work better than a USB drive which is not at all suited for editing video.