[Dennis Size]

You have provided no information as to WHY you want “overhead lighting to give a nice spread out light”, so proper advice is impossible.
My instrument of choice for overhead wash lighting is the simple scoop, depending on the grid height. If I’ve got a high grid then I’ll use sky pans or space lights. That being said there are a wide variety of wash instruments available, and the actual fixture you use can be anything from a 200w Mini-10 Broad to a Kino-Flo IMAGE 80.
Armed with “hardware” knowledge I feel compelled to tell you the BEST advice you’re going to get regarding the angle of light you want. You should NEVER use overhead lighting for anything but “worklight”. It is the worst possible angle and will yield the most unflattering light for human faces.

[Dennis Size]

Fluorescents, especially IMAGE 80’s, (my instrument of choice) work best when doing any Virtual Reality/Greenscreen work. If they’re not available, I find any Kino Flo (usually Mega doubles) will make the job easier, cleaner, and provide a better “key”.
That being said I will often use cyc lights, or even scoops. One time all I had available were PAR CANS — which worked great when I diffused them and then stretched a silk across the area in front of them.
The point is to use a broad based, soft, even, wash of light on your greenscreen..
Once that’s done it’s equally important to properly light your background — separately from your foreground (which should also be lit with fluorescent).
DS

P.S. Rather than dim your Tota’s, reduce the lamp wattage to a 200w or 300w. The greenscreen will require surprising little illumination. The biggest mistake people make is overlighting the screen.

[Dennis Size]

Sorry this got away from me before I was done.

QUESTION 1 – No…. unless you don’t mind the color temperature shift on your greenscreen — otherwise dim away. I always have my greenscreen sources on a dimmer (unless I’m using non-dim fluorescents).

QUESTION 2 – No … unless you don’t mind the color temperature shift between your subject and your greenscreen –which will result in more aggravation later. My choice is to color correct my subjects backlights to neutralize the green bounce back.

[Dennis Size]

Quesstion 1 – no
Question 2 – no

[Dennis Size]

Someone actually told you that the Tota-lights were good? Obviously that was someone trying to get revenge on some other sucker who didn’t know any better. The money you save on the fixtures will be doubled buying antiseptic burn ointment, so be prepared. However once you own them you’ll find that after you stop using them for lighting you’ll be able to use them to cook your Christmas goose.
You could save all the aggravation and just do it right with Kino Flos.
If cost is that crucial then resort to a good old fashioned scoop. You should be able to buy 10″ scoops used for well under $100.00, and they’ll work great. Whatever source you choose you’ll need at least 5 for a greenscreen that wide….but only two 8′-0″ Kino Singles (hint-hint).

DS

[Dennis Size]

Lighting greenscreens has been discussed ad nauseum in this FORUM.
You should definitely go back into the archives and you’ll find a wealth of information to help get you on the right path.

DS

[Dennis Size]

It depends how well you utilize your Lowels and Arris — and what type of fixtures they are.
If they’re all tota-lites and Arri open face fixtures I’d worry.
If you use fluoros on the greenscreen make sure the lamps are tungsten balanced.

DS

[Dennis Size]

CHIMERA makes a complete range of CTO and CTB color correctors that easily velcro right to the inside of the lightbank. It’s the professional and correct way to do it, despite your not wanting to buy them.
I always use a full sheet of color, cut the same size as the silk, and insert it behind my honeycomb, in front of the silk. If by some catastrophic reason I didn’t get honeycombs with the Chimeras, I’ll attach the color to the inside of the lightbank lip with large binder clips. It’s easy, quick, and looks a little more professional than clothespins, which makes it look like my grips just finished their laundry and hung it on the lights to dry.
DS

[Dennis Size]

KINO FLO’s Image 40 fixtures

[Dennis Size]

It’s not an exact science, despite what theory may dictate.
Try Roscolux #3411 – “Roscosun 3/4 CTO”, or
Roscolux #3407 – “Roscosun CTO”.
You should have some Roscolux #3314 – “tough 1/4 minusgreen” handy also.

DS