Dennis Size
Forum Replies Created
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MARK…..excellent analysis of the system. I would have just said it’s a pain-in-the-ass and not to bother using it.
I did testing with it a few years back and found it too expensive, and too limiting for the standard greenscreen stuff we need to crank out all the time.
That being said, in answer to Joe’s original question, the ARRI 650’s are more than enough light. Since you need to work relatively close I would keep the softbox but recommend lamping the 650’s down. If the bulkiness of the fixtures with the softboxes annoy you, then use 300w or 150w fresnesls with diffusion.
Frankly, if I had a choice I would go with two 1’x 1′ LED 3200K flood Lite Panels. That’d save aggravation; weigh next to nothing, create no heat, and require no power (to speak of).
DS -
You should research back into this FORUM. You will find hours of reading that will most assuredly answer your question — if not further confuse you.
Your post is a “horse” that has been beaten to death ad nauseum.Once you have done your research, feel free to post any questions you might have for further clarification.
DS -
This was discussed in this FORUM once before.
I had recommended ALTMAN LIGHTING (look under THEATRICAL – Blacklights).
They have a variety of fixtures that will do the job you need in various intensities. You haven’t given any parameters of your shoot (such as how broad an area you need to light and the intensity of the light you need); but I would recommend the ALTMAN 400w Fresnel lensed Blacklight. It’s bright enough to hang in a 16′-0″ grid and still get good results over a broad area.DS
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You could have even more fun and use lekos and PARs washing your walls/ceiling.
Then you could not only alternate colors but also beams spreads.
Put templates in each leko to add texture to your walls to really push the fun envelope — and if you want to just go crazy with excitement, add gobo rotators.
You could even add color scrollers if you can stand to have THAT much fun.DS
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The use, and choice, of color is a powerful thing. There is no one color for Jazz AND Swing as that involves thousands and thousands of songs — and there’s an equal number of different opinions on cueing and color combinations.
A Lighting Designer lets the music inspire him, and lead him to the answers.
That being said I would also never turn off the overhead lights, choosing instead to use them to enhance the mood of the room.
Since you have access to various color manufacturers you should be wrapping the fluoros in colors (with an extremely low co-efficient of transmission obviously)inspired by the music.
I would probably alternate Rosco #85 and Rosco #59 ….. if there’s too much light I might remove half the tubes.DS
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This relatively low cost, but well thought out kit will do what you need.
https://www.barbizon.com/catalog/detail.cfm?Prod_ID=20165&series=1&brand=2
DS
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Actually I believe they call it the Lite Panel MiniPlus.
Over the years I’ve used many small fixtures for close up camera “fill” and eye light purposes. With the current state of technology (not to mention everyone’s concern about being green) I’ve found this fixture to provide the best bang for the buck in terms of efficiency, portability, and options. I must admit, however, I have not yet tried the new Lite Panel Micro.
Note, that does not mean there might not be something new in a year that will change my mind.DS
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My preference is always the LED Mini-Lite Panel.
I’ve installed dozens so far for many clients — and with great success.DS
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Sometimes it’s better to do a little research on what’s the best tool for a job. If you were hammering in a nail you certainly wouldn’t use a screwdriver to do the job right (although we all have).
When lighting a greenscreen, a soft wash is the quality of light you need (as has been said “ad nausem” in this Forum). Your first mistake was in buying harsh floodlights. Then you put yourself in the position of having to fix the problems you created using the wrong tool. You should have used softlights — fluorescent being the easiest/best choice.
I can cetainly understand a novice not having the money to buy expensive pro tools (such as Kino Flo fluorescents) but you still should buy the right tool.
For the same money you spent on those cheap halogen work lights you could have bought cheap fluorescent fixtures. I just bought 3 double tube 4′-0″ fixtures at Home Depot for $15.00 apiece. That would have done the same job for you without excessive heat being generated and power wasted; with relatively the same end result — but not as much angst.How did you actually light the band?
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YEA JOHN!!!!