[Dennis Size]

Buy 12 cheap 4′-0″ shop lights from HOME DEPOT and fit them with KINO FLO 3200 tubes. Hang them overhead and on the side walls …. leave them for the entire length of your shoot (Your time is too valuable to load-in/load-out/re-light for every shoot.

Buy matte green chromakey #VFGF262 GAM Floor, lay it in and leave it.
https://www.gamonline.com/catalog/gamfloor/index.php

Rent 2 Kinos/stands to use a front fill for each of your shoot days. MY choice would be Parabeam 400’s (but 200’s might be enough).
This is dance, you don’t want a lot of frontlight. Sidelight and top light is what models form and is the best angle for dance.

Have fun with it.
DS

[Dennis Size]

The chances are extremely good those ARRI barndoors will not work.
You need to measure your accessory frame holder distance and find another fixture that is an exact match. You should never assume the accessory holder clips for the barn doors and color frames are the same because the lens diameter of a fixture is the same.
DS

[Dennis Size]

A light meter and a color meter are 2 different things.

The paint you use in immaterial. Because of your situation I’d suggest a relatively inexpensive paint since you’ll need to repaint several times a year (depending on usage).
Just get a color that’s close to TV White, or you’ll hate yourself.
DS

[Dennis Size]

Get (borrow, rent, steal, buy) a color meter if you really care that much.
My rough guess is that the LED’s are daylight balanced, or “close to daylight” (many LED’s balance out at 4700K), and that the Kino’s have 2900K lamps in them (which always read a bit pink).
DS

[Dennis Size]

Nicely put Todd.
To simply even further, with an example everyone can understand, think of the definition (and shadows created) by the one true light source — the sun — at noon on a cloudless day. It’s very bright and far away (therefore very small). You can’t get a much more harsh light.
Then add a thick cloud cover — which diffuses that single hard source turning it into a much larger source spreading the light evenly, wrapping everything in a soft wash of shadowless light.
DS

[Dennis Size]

Wow ….. that’s too bad. Perhaps you should try PAR 64’s. They’re only pennies to rent (You can actually buy them on USEDLIGHTING.com for $39 apiece.)
You might even be able to pick up 2 PAR BARs fairly cheaply. That would give you multiple hard sources from each side.
You could also call your local college or high school and borrow a few PAR CANS. Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
I wouldn’t drop down to only one per side. Two per side would make all the difference — maybe even TWICE as good!
DS

[Dennis Size]

Mount 2 medium lensed Source 4 PARS (575w) on a 6′-0″ boom … one at 5′-0″ from the floor, and one at 2′-0″ from the floor.
Make four of these booms. Put two at each end of the room as sidelight — equidistant from each other and the walls. Put a Rosco 60 color in the four lights on one side and a Rosco 57 in the lights on the opposite side.
If you have enough power (and energy) left, mount your 4 haologen lighs as far upstage as possible and flood the entire room in backlight (perhaps with a Rosco 64 or 68 blue).
Putting a dimmer on each boom would allow you to flavor to taste.
Using LED PARS would allow you to utilize no power and create no heat (but cost money to rent).
Frontlight?? That’s for wimps.
Live on the edge, you’re lighting for shape and form, not to mention mood. It’s not a newscast.
Good luck, and have fun with it.
DS

[Dennis Size]

A 10 degree Source 4 ellipsoidal with a 750w lamp will give you the exposure you want (have a dimmer available also in case you need less intensity) along with the narrow beam width.
Have a 5 degree lens barrel available in case you want a narrower beam width … and a 14 degree barrel if you want a bit bigger beam width. Use a 1/2 CTB color correction to cool down the light (or a 1/2 CTO with 1/4 Plusgreen if you want the effect of a Sodium vapor streetlamp).
30″ seems a bit bizarre however. What are you shooting that requires such little space?
I’ve also never seen a streetlamp yield a perfectly defined, sharp focused circle — especially that small.
If you trully want the effect of a mercury vapor streetlamp, I would use a 1.8kw HMI PAR with a very narrow lens. That would yield a bigger softer diameter — but would look correct.
Good luck,
Dennis

[Dennis Size]

As John said, switch the lamps in your Diva’s to the tungsten balanced ones. That’s the beauty of owning Kino Flo products. Not to do it to save money is the wrong answer. It will cost you elsewhere.

That being said, use Rosco’s CINEGEL #3411 to correct your 5500K lamps to 3200K.

To correct your 5500K lamps to 5000 use Rosco’s CINEGEL #3444, and ADD Rosco’s CINEGEL #3317 to balance to the fluoresent’s green.
DS

[Dennis Size]

Yes they are pink …. no they don’t improve to a perfect match for tungsten.
DS