Aaron Stewart
Forum Replies Created
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Yeah, under Canon E1, it should say “EOS Movie” and then across that “Apple ProRes 4444”. Thats all fine.
But can you not click the “Apple ProRes 4444” and change it to whatever format you want? Mine changes fine, and I’ve been using it with no issues.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
I’ve uploaded to a permanent shared link, so if that website doesn’t work anymore and someone happens on this thread in the future needing the old 1.2.4 firmware they can get it from here:
https://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5108a1e0f20ce8a5ab1eab3e9fa335ca421884d0a0206931
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
The Zoom’s inputs are XLR / Quarter inch combo inputs, just as a side note, so it takes both.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
Might try PM’ing some of the people on the cinema5D forum…. sounds like they were keeping backups of old firmware they might be able to email you.
https://www.cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=8739&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
Personally I went the DSLR route for now, but looking to invest in Red Scarlet once they have hit the market for several months. DSLR’s are a bit of an investment in extra equipment to make them proper video-like cameras…. but I’ve tried to make purchases conscious of what I would be using in the future to fit those needs as well.
But thats not to say that Panasonic wouldn’t make great artistic shorts. And if you are used to video cameras it may be easier to handle than the DSLRs, which handle much more like a still camera that just happen to shoot video.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
Of those two, I would go for the Panasonic. It is a tapeless workflow, but the images you get will be cleaner (generally) than the HDV from the XH A1S. On most current NLE’s you can edit the AVCHD natively (which is nice) and easier than dealing with converting the HDV before you edit. If you have camera shops nearby, they might have demos of both cameras you can get a feel for them.
Hard drive space and SD cards will also come into play here. Plus whatever audio equipment/tripod/head/lights/etc you’ll need. But of those two, in my opinion, the Panasonic is a much better camera.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
The Philip Bloom thing is an April Fools joke. These cameras aren’t really capable of outputting RAW data like that, and won’t be through firmware upgrades.
DSLRs have much larger sensor sizes than typical video cameras, and as sensor size increase, depth of field decreases. If you’ve got an old 35mm film camera laying around, just pick it up, dial it to F4, and check out the depth of field. You’ll see an immediate difference between that image and a video image at F4. Knowing a DSLR in terms of photography is going to go a lot further with these types of cameras than knowing video cameras. Always remember it is a still camera first, video camera second.
There are getting to be more and more places that rent these cameras for pretty little money. I’ve encouraged people who are looking to buy to try renting one for a couple days and try it out.
This article talks about sensor size and how that affects DOF. Good reading:
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htmAaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
BTW…. for your very original question, I found this:
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos7d%2Ccanon_eos500d&show=allEF-S lenses are made for cameras with smaller sensors (such as the 7D) and don’t work on cameras like the 1Dmk4 or 5dmk2, which are “full frame” sensor sized cameras, which is why I was saying if I was going to drop over $500 on a lens, I would want it to work on future cameras I may (or may not) get.
This is a good explanation on lenses, sensor sizes, etc.
https://photography.bhinsights.com/content/angles-view-cure-chronic-millimeter-malaise.htmlAnd much better put than I could have stumbled around with!
Another good source you may want to check out is Philip Bloom’s blog:
https://philipbloom.co.uk/
(just ignore the current fake April Fools day joke about RAW recording…)And his DVD… covers a lot of stuff with shooting with the 7D (including some on lenses). Its a little basic in some parts, but he does cover some really good stuff, including the post-production side, which is important:
https://philipbloom.co.uk/2009/11/29/7d-and-5dmkii-training-videos-now-available-as-digital-downloads/Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
Well, I haven’t had a chance to use most of these….
To be honest, before you invest in lenses, perhaps the best thing to do would be to find photographers in your area (sometimes companies also rent lenses) and see if you can beg/borrow/rent as many as you can and see what they look like for yourself. 22-24mm seems a bit wide to me. You can get a full shot with a 50mm lens if you back up enough (ha)… but it works. And keep in mind, that you may be fine with the image sharpness with a $100 EF 50mm 1.8, or a lens from a different manufacturer. I would definitely recommend trying to find lenses and test them out before buying. Might not be able to build a set and set it up EXACTLY like you are wanting to, but especially with talent (if you’ve already got them picked out for your show) its important to do lens tests and see whats going to work best.
EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS at $720.00
EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM at $1520.00Well, I wouldn’t really buy an EF-S lens. Think of a lens as an investment. EF-S lenses aren’t going to be around forever as sensor sizes increase. If I’m dropping more than $100 on a lens, I want it to work on the current EF mount, just in case I use the lens in the future on a camera with a bigger sensor (whether that be a Canon camera, or a Red camera).
Sorry, I know thats not much practical help, but if you are planning on getting the 7D with a stock lens of some sort (are you? or body only?) then I would get it, test it with that lens, and see if you are happy with it.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com -
And also keep in mind that on those longer lenses you’ll need the IS versions otherwise they’ll be quite susceptible to the “rolling shutter.” The stock lens with the 7D is 18mm-135mm and is reasonably sharp, although the nicer L glass is better. I would say the weatherproofing on the 7D would be a biggie, as I’ve shot in a variety of situations, even with it snowing outside, the camera got pretty much completely wet (although not splashed with water, just from snow landing and melting on the camera), and it was fine.
I’ve got 3 lenses right now with my 7D. The stock 18-135 EF-S, 50mm EF 1.8, and an FD 50mm Macro 3.5 with FD to EF adapter.
Aaron R. Stewart
arstewart@gmail.com