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What setting to shoot a marathon race ?
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Stutter…?
I’ve shot many a marathon and ironman triathlon and never got a stutter with a Canon HV20/30/40…
I don’t know what you mean by stutter?
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Not going to work… unless you can rotoscope the runners out of their background… and, there is no way you can successfully do that with a reasonable sort of of time.
The runners are not running in front of a blue screen. Therefore, you can not key out the runners… the only option is to roto each runner… and that would be crazy to even attempt… specially if you include arm and leg movements.
If I read your post correctly, your idea is bad.
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“Did you shot the runners coming forward you, or 3/4 or parallel to to the camera frame going from the left to the right ?”
Yes…. to all. I don’t think you understand… from what angle you shoot the runners depends upon the lighting… and, using the correct angle of light to the camera takes two actions:
1) changing the iso to accomodate for the amount of light
2) adding or removing any filters to help with lighting.Once you have the lighting correct, there will not be any blurring because you have the iso matched to the light needed to remove shadows and prevent blurring.
If you get the shutter speed (i.e., iso) correct relative to the angle of the light you need for the shot… then, every thing will work…. there will be no blurring and shadows will not hide faces.
“how did you set up your camera ? interlaced or progressive; cinemode or tv; shutter at 1/50 or 1/120 ? … “
There is NO ONE way to set up the camera… I set up the camera to match the conditions. Personally, I use 30p (or 24p for PAL users)since it is easier to post to the internet… I will sometimes rotate throught the camera presets (ex. cinemode, tv, bright light, etc) to see they work, but more frequently I have to manually set the iso and/or gain. Your typically going to get your best shots if you manual set the camera (…WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO GO OUT AND TEST THE CAMERA TO SEE WHAT SHOOTS BEST DURING THE SAME TIME OF DAY). There is no getting around going out and using the camera until you get an idea as to how manual set your camera for different lighting enviroments. 1/50 1/120 1/250 1/500… heck – they ALL can work… depends upon the lighting enviroment, position of camera and light source and if you are using filters.
However, chances are you will want to use at least 1/50 but most likely 1/100 or higher to prevent blurring… and, I still don’t know why your camera studders… unless there is something wrong with it. Maybe, … by studder… you mean you are getting a ghosting effect (sometimes confused with blurring). If you are getting this “ghosting”, it is because you are shooting at too low of an iso (probably below 1/100 or 1/50) AND/OR too much light. Like I mentioned earlier… if you get the correct amount of light into the camera with the correct iso and direction of the shot relative to the sunlight and intensity of the sunlight… you will not have any blurring or ghosting. THERE IS NO ONE BEST WAY TO SET UP THE CAMERA SETTINGS.
All that being said, let me use two extreme examples of how you might set up your camera…
EXTREME bright light with camera facing the sun and runners in between the camera and the sun: I would probably shoot at 1/250 or 1/500 with a 2x or 4x ND filter. At this speed you will not have ANY blurring… I can even see the individual spokes of bike at these ISO speeds.
DARK SHADDOWs with pre-sun rise lighting with camera facing the subject and ligting behind the camera: I would probably shoot at 1/50 or 1/100 (depending if on the direction of the runners… if they are running past the camera instead of toward the camera, I would use the higher iso) with no ND filter.There are a dozen or so variations of these to combinations… and, the only way you are going to find out what works best to go out and shoot during the same time of day you plan on shooting the marathon.
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