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Activity Forums DSLR Video Moire pattern with Canon 7D

  • Phil Yunker

    July 10, 2010 at 5:50 pm

    [Noah Kadner] “turn down your sharpness settings”
    So I’m looking at my picture style settings and I have the sharpness dialed to just one click from zero or all the way down. Same with Contrast, Sat is @ one to the left from center and colour tone is at zero.
    You think dialing the sharpness all the way to zero?
    Thanks.

    PHIL

    PHIL YUNKER
    Yunker Video Production Services
    http://www.philyunker.com
    http://www.linkedin.com/in/philyunker

  • John Frey

    July 10, 2010 at 6:01 pm

    Phil, here is a link to a GH1 Hack tester with brick walls and tiles. Very impressive.

    https://www.vimeo.com/12792325

    John D. Frey
    25 Year owner/operator of two California-based production studios.

    Digital West Video Productions of San Luis Obispo and Inland Images of Lake Elsinore

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  • Phil Yunker

    July 10, 2010 at 6:11 pm

    Bricks and tile roof look good, no moire.
    W.A. is a very cool place, btw.
    PHIL

    PHIL YUNKER
    Yunker Video Production Services
    http://www.philyunker.com
    http://www.linkedin.com/in/philyunker

  • Uli Plank

    July 11, 2010 at 11:26 am

    Yes, I’d always dial sharpening down to zero, it doesn’t do any good. You can always add some sharpening after grading, noise reduction etc. and use more sophisticated and fine-tuneable methods for that.

    There’s good reason for RED not to have any in camera sharpening. It’s not bad per se, but you’ll want full control. The only place where it would make sense is video to be used without much post-processing at all. But that’s not what you’d get a DSLR for, that’s the domain of a video camcorder.

    All other settings are highly dependent on your set, lighting and desired look. You need to get as close to desired look in camera as possible, since the massive compression together with 8 bit doesn’t leave too much room for grading – you images can fall apart quite easily. For example, I don’t subscribe to the idea of always shooting flat as sometimes suggested. If you need some punch later, you’ll have to stretch those few bits too much. Of course it makes sense with very high-contrast scenes, since the sensor can do much more than 8 bit.

    Director of the Institute of Media Research (IMF) at Braunschweig University of Arts

  • Phil Yunker

    July 11, 2010 at 2:55 pm

    Uli,
    All great info and makes perfect sense to me. I was told to shoot flat and then grad it in post. But your advice on getting it close to your desired look in camera makes sense as well.
    Thanks again for all the advice.

    PHIL

    PHIL YUNKER
    Yunker Video Production Services
    http://www.philyunker.com
    http://www.linkedin.com/in/philyunker

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