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Is this amount of EX1 noise normal?
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Hi Navarro,
The picture looks horrible.
You can not try to make CK with a Cine Gamma 4 setting.
Cine Gamma 4 is good for a cine look and when shooting in low light conditions. Aside that any Cine Gamma will make more difficult to tweak the picture in post.
With all my respect, the “Doug Jensen’s Vortex Media EX DVD”, is very useful for somebody that never have put his hands on the camera, but that’s all (when they released the DVD, the EX-1 wasn’t yet for sale, so no real time to know the camera).
His PP is bad and anyway, if you intend to use an “all-weather” PP, you better stick with the Standard PP with some tweaking. I’ve made CKs with the EX-1 with very poor lighting and they look much better than your.
For a good PP for CK, you can find your answer spread among many post in many different forums.
or you can contact the few people that have been tweaking the EX PPs with full understanding of what they were doing.
Cheers,
rafael -
Hey Rafa, I’m amazed to see what you say about Doug Jensen’s PP for the EX. He seems to be a very experienced cameraman and I followed his advice. I’ve never used personal PP’s before so was a bit in the dark. I’m not doing CK and my pics are good with Jensen’s settings (particularly daylight at 5600K), the contrast and colour look better than with the factory default which Jensen reckons are set neutral to await PP’s. I shoot with gain at -3 whenever possible. A suggested PP (wherever it differs from the default) would be appreciated.
Michael Slowe
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Hi Michael,
Sorry if did sounds as I dismiss Douglas or his PP, that was not my intention.
The Vortex DVD was the only thing we have two years ago and I used is PP too, but I think that now there are some more “scientific” formulas.
The beauty of the PPs is that you can set your camera up for each situation, but you can not get that with just one profile.
Cheers,
Rafa-el -
The cinegammas work best when material is going to be graded. They are compressing the highlights starting at around 70 IRE and getting more and more compressed the higher you go. This doesn’t suit all shooting scenarios and can lead to picture straight out of the camera that look very flat.
If your not grading heavily or have control over your lighting you are going to get an image with more punch by using the standard gammas. Stay well clear of standard gamma 1, it is very noisy.
For a situation where you have full lighting control I would use Standard Gamma 2 and turn the Knee off. If you don’t have control over your lighting and are not going to grade the image then try std gamma 2 with the knee set to 85 and slope set to 10. If you want to make the image a little more contrasty then set the black gamma to -20 to -35. I normally run with black level at -4.
Chroma Key with a 4:2:0 camera works best when shot progressive. If you use a 180 degree shutter you get a tiny bit less noise, but it’s not a big difference. Capturing to ProRes with a Decklink card does tend to add noise, not sure whether this is the decklink card or ProRes, but I find I can key very cleanly off the EX material if I shoot progressive. I would not use the high sat matrix as this will increase chroma noise, just use the standard matrix, raising the low key sat level should help with the noise in the blacks and crispening at +30 to +40 will also reduce noise in shadow and low contrast areas.
Alister Chapman
http://www.xdcam-user.com -
Hi Alister,
For exteriors I’m using your “Low-noise” PP with different CINE Gammas and I have to state that works great.
Thanks for sharing it and if there is any convenient tweaking, please let us know.
Cheers,
rafael
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