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Deciding on a first DSLR for video.
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Hmmm man this is a lot to think about. I’m really liking the Nikon d7000. I found some good prices on lenses and everything. The only problem I see with it is the frame rates that it shoots. There’s no 60p options even at lower resolutions like the Canon 60d has. Which like I said earlier, I want for doing slow motion action shots. Also, I was looking at some Carl Zeiss lenses (used of course). How do they compare with Nikor and Canon lenses?
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Hi Curtis,
Nikon and Canon are both adequate for video. One brand is not really any better than the other. The best brand for video in the DSLR/DSLM form factor is Panasonic. One major advantage for me – like camcorders, Panasonic GH cameras have viewfinders that continue to work in video mode, for example. Canon and Nikon do not, forcing you to buy a loupe or external monitor.
Panasonic cameras also have silent, autofocusing lenses that continue to work in video mode, while even the quietest Nikon lenses are noisy by comparison and Canon only has one camera where autofocus keeps working in video mode (the T4i). I came from film cameras and camcorders with autofocus to a Canon DSLR. The lack of autofocus in video mode was a shock to me, so I sold it.
Canon and Nikon DSLRs are also subject to a shot-ruining phenomenon called moire (as seen here and here), except for the $3000+ Canon 5D Mark III and the $12,000 1D C.
In addition, Canons are limited to 12, 22 or 30 minutes of continuous video before you have to restart the camera. Nikons are limited to 20 or 30. Again, coming from camcorders, this was a shock. Panasonics can shoot continuously for hours.
The GH cameras not only have superior video features, they also produce superior video images. Here is what the $1300 Panasonic GH3 can do:
Narrative: https://vimeo.com/49420579
Narrative: https://vimeo.com/59543338
Doc: https://vimeo.com/54076272
This camera also shoots 1080/60p, and features built-in wi-fi for phone or tablet control, a splashproof magnesium alloy body, a headphone jack, and a fully articulated LCD.
This camera is backordered at Amazon, but there are a few in stock right now for $1299 from Kenmore Camera via eBay
and for $1298 at Adorama.
The GH cameras were designed from the ground up for video starting a few years ago. It is part of their DNA. It really is an “add on” capability for Canon and Nikon still camera designs that date back almost half a century.
Hope this is helpful,
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Hi David,
Some people alter the picture controls in each brand. GoPro has a set of Technicolor profiles, Red Giant has some tools etc. and many Canon users use the Technicolor patch for Canon as well or Tassin Flatt profiles.
For Nikon, I was advised by Ric Kasnoff to shoot neutral way back in the stone age of 2010 when the D7000 first arrived.
Ric is here and worth following for gear to geek stuff: https://vimeo.com/17225631 or https://vimeo.com/ricphoto
That being said, Alvaro Yus in the EU (Spain?) has an entire profile array for the D7000 and great video examples of deep tweak. He offers the profiles at no charge. Great stuff here: https://alvaroyus.com/
So far, shooting in neutral has been good enough for me however, I am looking at building a custom profile for the D800 when I want to experiment and have time. These can be loaded into the custom settings on both the D7K and D800.
The reason is we are (my associate has the A99/Zeiss) ramping up to get around the shark tank world of web promos, wish me luck, that means competing with design and photo grads from Brooks, Art Center, Otis and every college in between.
Opening up the range in a profile does allow better construct in post, to answer your question and shooting say a retail store opening, or party without a grip truck and lights means having latitude for reaching into the blacks or control of the white so yes that type of pre-shot adjustment can be very handy. It makes sense in ambient conditions, indoors at night.
We were at an APA seminar before Halloween and the instructor said shoot the profile which fits the subject matter because a profile on video, unlike a profile in raw, is burned in (arguably).
I disagree on that approach and prefer to have as much data availed after the fact without a color control choice (Landscape, Portrait, Standard etc.)
After all, if one owns an iJOBS or Google phone, loading in an incidence and color meter, slate, DOF chart etc. will get you into the set conditions that a DP would have a bead on.
This “science” is not something everyone does, but, the longer we are at it, the more edge we seem to gravitate to, in order to get our best results.
Up next, a couple of follow focus rigs.
Here is what I’ll get. I’ve been stalling on this for months (budget ‘doncha know) and I love the fact there is NO play: https://www.hondogarage.com/index.php/product/landing/follow-focus
If I can offer anything else, please let me know.
Best book: Rich Harrington and the lads, From Still to Motion.
HTH’s
Rob Manning
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Thank you very much!!!
David
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Helpful advise!!! I am currently looking to buy a DSLR primarily for video and from my research Panasonic GH3 is the way to go if one has a limited budget. For $3,000 or less you can get a GH3 body a couple of entry level lens, memory cards and a mic.
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You’re right, Miguel. The good news is that, since I wrote the post above, they’re no longer in short supply, and are in stock for $1298 at Amazon, Adorama and elsewhere. You can save even more by getting one used on eBay.
Cheers,
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I actually just wrote a blog on my top 5 DSLRs for video, if that helps! https://www.noamkroll.com/top-5-dslrs-for-video/
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