-
Auto Facial Focus vs Manual?
-
Cheers Todd!
-
Todd,
Can you please explain how peaking works and how do I interoperate it? The XF-100 has two peaking options. Peaking 1 brings out sharp lines around the outlines of things in frame while peaking 2 has some kind of histogram appear on the LCD screen. I’ve found a field monitor that will help me with exposure, frame & focus. It has the same kind of focus assist as peaking 1 on the XF-100. Whats the best way to interoperate and use these focus assist functions?
Pat
-
Hi Patrick…
I can’t speak exactly to the XF-100 because I haven’t used that camera… does it have “red line” peaking? That’s what some Canon cameras use.
If so, those red lines will appear around everything that is in sharp focus when “Peaking 1” is turned on. If you don’t see the lines around what you want to be sharp, you know you’ll have to adjust focus a bit. If the camera doesn’t have the actual “red line” feature, then the peaking is just emphasizing the sharp edges. It works the same, just not quite as easy to see as the red line version.
The histogram version is a little harder to explain… in fact, I can’t really. I know intuitively how to use it, but I can’t really put it in to words. It’s one of those things that if you play with it, it will be evident how it works to you… or it won’t. You’ll just have to try it.
The thing to keep in mind is to make sure your talent’s eyeballs are sharp… that’s the key. If the eyes are razor sharp, everything else can even be a little soft yet we perceive the scene as in focus. Conversely, if the eyes are soft it doesn’t matter what else is sharp, the scene will be perceived as out of focus.
T2
__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com
-
Cheers Todd,
Yes Peaking 1does give me those lines and from your explanation I’m getting things right there. When I was first introduced to cameras at Uni my lecturer taught us to zoom right into the talents face adjust the focus so its nice and sharp then zoom out to the desired frame which in my case is head and shoulders. So from what you’re saying is that I should zoom into the eye, adjust the focus then zoom out to the desired framing – correct?
Just for the time being I’m looking at getting this field monitor to help with framing and focus:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/170972816989?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649Do you think its worth getting it just for those two things? Its cheap enough to allow me to at least have something while I consider getting a proper on? It doesn’t appear to be to bad considering its price. What do you think?
-
Yes, the old school tried-n-true focusing method is to full zoom in, focus, and then re-frame. That works. But the peaking functions help you keep a good focus during those times when you can’t zoom in and re-focus, when you have to adjust focus during an active shot.
That monitor looks ok. It’s not very expensive… but it’s not full HD either (it’s 600 lines). But it does have 1-to-1 pixel function. That means it will pop the picture up bigger so you are seeing it at actual full resolution (or at least see the center portion of the screen at fuzz res) so you can get a good focus.
I’ll note that with my camera (the C300) the focusing aids (peaking, histogram, magnification, etc.) do not show up on an external monitor, only on the camera’s LCD. Maybe yours works differently, I don’t know.
On another thing… you weren’t asking for any aesthetic input but I’ll give you a piece of unsolicited advice. I believe you have been (or have been planning to) shoot these veterans on a black limbo background. I saw a shot or two of these gentlemen, either on your website or some other (can’t remember exactly which). It seems to me that a lot more “character” of these fellows comes through when they are shot in their natural surroundings… in a kitchen chair at their table, or an easy chair in their living room, or on their porch or deck. At least to me, they’d look a lot more natural and like “real people” there rather than in a faux studio setting. Your talent might be a lot more comfortable that way as well. And as the final bonus… lighting will be much more forgiving and you don’t have to be so “studio perfect.” Just my two cents… that might not fit in at all with your master vision for this project, but I thought I’d mention it.
T2
__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com
-
Todd,
About your 2 cents: You are so right! I know for sure that lights, screens etc will put the guys off! I’ve been doing that for years. I’m really torn between the screen or natural habitat! I’ve got two projects I’m starting at the moment. One is more on the professional side while the other is more off a personal project. i used the screen for the pilot while contending to get the first project started and those involved like the screen and want to continue that way. As for the 2nd, if I go to see some guy and set up the screen, lights its like i’m invading there home! But I’ve found that lighting is key and that you can’t always find the best back drop. I would like to do something with the footage and the black background does look a lot more uniformed. I am just not sure what to do at the moment. I shot a lot of interviews with no screen and most came out fine as long as the natural light was good. Now I’m making sure that I can control the lighting with a set of good lights. I think the screen does conform to the many documentaries cover my subject genera. The screen looks good but you are so right. I’ve tried it with two vets and the set up didn’t disrupt a thing. Both were impressed which was a surprise but I know there are others that are reluctant to even talk to me with the camera let alone the other stuff.
Reply to this Discussion! Login or Sign Up