The LEDs are cool, long lived, and stingy on power draw. On the other hand, you pay big time to get these advantages.
For weddings, I like an on-camera light with a dimmer, and no more than a 50 watt lamp. A diffusion grid, plus a sheet or two of Rosco TufSpun diffusion paper will soften the light nicely, or you can use an on-cam soft box. Barn doors are a plus, but not an absolute necessity. If you are using a camera that’s good in low light, such as a Sony VX-2100, you can get away with a much smaller instrument, like the little 10/20 watt lights that will run piggyback off the camera battery.
You don’t need a dichroic filter unless you are using the light outdoors in daylight, as a fill light for harsh shadows cast by the sun. The dichroic filter gives the light a bluer cast, to match the sunlight.
For interviews, or any situation where the cam and your subject are stationary and you have time to “set the stage”, an on-camera light is not your best choice. Better to have a lighting kit to set up two or three point lighting, which is much more flattering to your subject. The “DV kits” sold by Lowel are a good choice; they include three lights, with a Rifa-light softbox as the key instrument.
You have two basic choices in battery belts: heavy and cheap lead-acid types, such as Bescor’s, or lighter and more expensive ni-cad belts, such as NRG’s. Ni-cads weigh about half what lead-acid batteries do, for the same watt-hour capacity. The NRG battery “vests” are the best for distributing the weight, but are also the most expensive route.
Elite Video, https://www.elitevideo.com, sells a great instructional DVD set that covers a number of low-cost lighting techniques for the budget videographer.
Regards,
Doug Graham