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400 joker bug or Kino flo 4×4?
I’m planning on shooting some interview footage that will likely include window daylight inside. So I want some daylight-balanced light to supplement. I’m going to assume that the daylight will not be consistent for a nice, strong key light, so here are two options I was considering:
1) Joker bug 400 with softbox for key, bounce card for fill, small tungsten fresnel for backlight.
2) Kino flo 4×4 for key, bounce card for fill, small tungsten fresnel for backlight.
I rented a kino once for this and didn’t really get much punch…the eyes looked kind of dead. But it might have been how I placed it. Generally, I like the punch of the joker, but wonder if it’s overkill.
Any thoughts would be most welcome. This forum has been fantastic!
Dan S.
Dan S.
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14 Replies
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Daniel,
A 400w HMI is hardly “overkill” if you’re trying to balance a window in the shot. I’d recommend both an 800 and a 400 Joker, which you can use either with softboxes or one hard and one soft. I am fortunate to have several 1800w Arris which are the biggest HMI you can plug into a household circuit, so there is no second guessing, you can always dim, scrim or diffuse the light down if necessary.
JS
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Hi John,
Thanks for your quick reply!
I recently did a shoot with a joker 800 diffused in a similar situation. Inside room with a good amount of diffuse window light. I had the joker coming in the same angle as the windows at the person, and it seemed kind of hot. That’s why I was thinking the 400. BTW, maybe I didn’t make it clear, the person will not have their back to the windows, window light (and joker light) will be coming in on their faces from a bit of an angle. So…with that in mind…you still think go with the 800 for key? (Like you said, can always dim/scrim/diffuse).
Thanks, Dan
Dan S.
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Also…I was hoping to go LIGHTER and save on the schlepping.
Dan S.
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Daniel,
The Joker 800 kit box is exactly the same size as the 400 kit.
The most beautiful key light is made by double diffusing; use the
softbox on the 800 and hang a roll of Lee216 in front of it; this really wraps on the subjects face and all but eliminates nose shadow but still has a directionality. Double diffusing requires a bigger source, namely the 800 vs. the 400 if you are fighting a bright background. If however you are able to scout the actual shot and determine that the 400 will provide the necessary poop, then you’re all set. Myself, I always prefer a slightly larger light that I can scrim down, because as you well know the alternative of making a small light brighter is not pretty!JS
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Thanks, JS.
Your advice sounds right.
I’ll just rent the cart to reduce schlepping.I was thinking a small tungsten fresnel for head/back light would be fine…and okay if it’s a little orange. You think? That way I only schlep one ballast.
Dan S.
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If it were me, I’d take a 400 Joker as the backlight and use with a softbox. This way (God forbid) if the 800 fails or won’t restrike, you’ll have a backup. If you must use a tungsten light, get a 500-650w fresnel with a dicroic or blue glass and scrim set to control.
If cost is a big consideration, now that it turns out that you aren’t actually shooting into the window, you could use that 4×4 Kino and the hanging Lee216 the same way and a 2′ Fourbank as backlight. Notice that they are the same ratio of output as the 800 and 400!
JS
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Ok…just found out the rental house doesn’t carry an 800 joker, only the 200, 400 or 1200 compact fresnel HMIs.
So, how about this:
Kino 4×4 for key, 200 par HMI for back/hair light. That way the hair light would be harder. Or is it better to match kino with kino, and use the 2×4 for the backlight?
Or Kino 4×4 for key, and 650 fresnel with blue gel for backlight?
Dan S.
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Again, my preference is to use comparable gear in order to keep color temperature consistent, so the 4×4 and 2’x4 fills the bill costs less than the HMI option. Don’t scrimp on c-stands!
JS
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Haven’t read all the details, just skimmed the post (I’m in a mad dash today), but I agree with John… a 400 Joker sure wouldn’t be overkill. I’d use an 800w Joker-Bug or a 1200 HMI bounced into a white 4×4 for the key.
You can still use your tungsten fixture as a back/hairlight. You might not even have to gel it. I often use a tungsten instrument for that in an otherwise daylight lighting setup and often times the warmer look to the backlight looks just fine, even desirable… so I forgo the blue gel on it (which really cuts the output).
T2
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Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com
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Thanks, JS. You’ve always been wise and super helpful.
Dan S.
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