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honeycomb grid on x-sm Chimera
I just bought a 20 degree fabric grid for my extra small Chimera, as a combo fill light/eyelight for interviews.
I was disappointed at how it worked in real life. Not only is 20 degrees narrow already, but the fabric grid makes it even narrower, because there’s a lot of fabric in a 20, and it isn’t that straight — not such a problem with a 60, but a big problem with a 20 — which also has the effect of reducing the amount and consistency of light.
So I’m considering a (metal) honeycomb 30 as opposed to a fabric 30, based in large part on Dennis Size’s comments here. I’m wondering about durability and travel, though. Are honeycombs really appropriate for location shooters? I read that the honeycombs come with a plywood case. Is that case road-capable? How much does the case add to the dimensions of the grid itself?
Finally, I’m looking to replace the fixture I use with my extra-small Chimera — it’s an Omni light, and it has no slots for scrims, the bulbs buzz when used with a dimmer, and blown-bulb changing takes way too long due to the way the speedring attaches. Does anybody have a favorite little fixture (without those characteristics) for the extra-small Chimera?
Thanks!
Bob C
MacPro 2 x 3GHz dualcore; 10 GB 667MHz
Kona LHe
Sony HDV Z1
Sony HDV M25U
HD-Connect MI
Betacam UVW1800
DVCPro AJ-D650 -
2 Replies
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Yes Bob, the 20 degree fabric grid is way too narrow. The honeycomb is not really appropriate for ENG use because it is fragile, heavy and bulky. I use the 60 degree fabric grids in my XS and S Chimeras and find them very useful for their intended purpose of controlling the spill of the walls in interviews and portraiture.
As regards your choice of instrument, the ideal is a bare bulb, as it illuminates the inside of the chimera evenly, in every direction, creating the smoothest soft light possible. A conventional light like a baby or quartz open face, while still pleasing, really is more like the effect of putting diffussion on the barndoors and cutters all around; more “punch” than “soft”.
As far as available instruments, I use Joker Bugs (200/400/800w) but these obviously are expensive and often beyond the affordability of neo-pros and those who cannot get the client to pay extra for HMI’s. Another alternative is a barebulb product made by Dedo, and of course you can always use photofloods in socket mounted speedrings, but unless you use the 1K watt “mogul” based globe (which is fragile, large, hard to find and only burns for about 6 hours) you probably won’t have enough output for normal use. If all you want is the ability to scrim the unit, I’d suggest a teenie or mickey mole open face. These are very durable and useful kit lites.
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[john sharaf] “Another alternative is a barebulb product made by Dedo”
Thank you John. As always, a generous source of first-rate advice. My 20 degree fabric grid is on its way back to the store. It was actually a good experiment, and the results were really kind of nice — it was just a pain to keep the thing aimed right.
re: bare bulb fixture for Chimera; I am leaning toward the “Triolet” from Chimera, with the 2-pin bulb, which I’ve been told can be dimmed without buzzing.
I love using a ton of instruments, but there are many times when I would actually deliver better value to the client if I packed less, traveled lighter, and moved faster. Here’s my new plan for my one-man band, corporate b-roll/interview shoots: key with Diva, the Triolet/Chimera for fill, a 200 Pepper hairlight, and a Source 4 for the background — that may just be my 4-ton truck. Oh, and a roll of gaffer tape. (This from somebody who brings everything he can fit, usually.)
Thanks again, John.
Bob
MacPro 2 x 3GHz dualcore; 10 GB 667MHz
Kona LHe
Sony HDV Z1
Sony HDV M25U
HD-Connect MI
Betacam UVW1800
DVCPro AJ-D650
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